“We’re going to Malaysia!” my cousin Brett yelled on the phone, reminiscing about Kenny Rogers Roasters. While that particular chicken chain might be a global survivor, my dive into forgotten American fast food led me to a more local and equally surprising discovery: Pioneer Chicken. Gone from most of America, this fried chicken chain, once endorsed by O.J. Simpson and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, still clings to life in two locations right here in Los Angeles. Why did nobody in Los Angeles ever tell me this?
My initial online search revealed Pioneer Chicken’s surprising popularity in Indonesia, rebranded as California Fried Chicken by Indonesian USC alumni. But the real revelation was closer to home: two original Pioneer Chicken outposts stubbornly surviving in Los Angeles, in Boyle Heights and Bell Gardens. As a lover of LA’s fast food history, I knew I had to investigate.
Los Angeles is the undisputed birthplace of car-centric, speed-obsessed fast food culture. This is the city that gave the world McDonald’s, where Bob’s Big Boy stands as a historical landmark, and where a preserved original McDonald’s in Downey still showcases Speedee the Chef. Pioneer Chicken, in its prime, was just as integral to this landscape. Founded in Echo Park in 1962 as Pioneer Take-Out, named after the adjacent Pioneer Market, it became a ubiquitous presence across California by the late 1970s, boasting 270 locations, many throughout the greater Los Angeles area.
The classic Pioneer Chicken design was unmistakable: ample windows, a compact dining space, a drive-through, and the iconic sign featuring Pioneer Pete, the jolly chuck wagon cook. The chicken itself was known for its distinct orange hue and satisfyingly greasy, crunchy texture. And who could forget Orange Bang, the hyper-sugared Orange Julius equivalent that fueled countless childhoods? For Angelenos growing up between the 70s and 90s, Pioneer Chicken wasn’t just food; it was a fixture of the urban environment.
Pioneer Chicken original article image 1
An exterior view of a Pioneer Chicken restaurant, showcasing its classic fast-food architecture with large windows and signage, under a cloudy sky.
The advertising campaigns of Pioneer Chicken, while undeniably dated by today’s standards, were also part of its unique charm. Imagine low-budget 70s commercials featuring chicken rotating against a stark black background, or the smiling face of O.J. Simpson, then known primarily for his football prowess. These ads, in their very awfulness, have become a nostalgic and almost surreal reminder of a bygone era of fast food marketing.
However, even catchy jingles and celebrity endorsements couldn’t stave off the changing tides of the fast-food industry. By 1987, Pioneer Chicken was facing bankruptcy. In 1993, Popeyes, a national chain with a different style of fried chicken, acquired the struggling brand and converted most locations. While mourned by some, the closure marked a significant loss for Los Angeles’s unique fast-food identity. Pioneer Chicken was more than just a meal; it was woven into the fabric of Los Angeles life, as commonplace as orange streetlights and jacaranda trees. Then, almost overnight, it disappeared.
Today, beyond the two surviving restaurants, Pioneer Chicken lives on in an unexpected corner of pop culture: Warren Zevon’s song “Carmelita.” The lyric “He hangs out down on Alvarado Street, by the Pioneer Chicken stand,” perfectly captures a gritty, yet mundane aspect of Los Angeles despair. When Dwight Yoakam played “Carmelita” at the Hollywood Palladium, the line about Pioneer Chicken resonated deeply with the old-school LA punk crowd, a testament to its enduring cultural footprint.
My pilgrimage began at the Boyle Heights Pioneer Chicken. The first thing that struck me was the window advertisement, seemingly untouched since the 1970s. Bold red, orange, and yellow screamed of that era, advertising “Econo Pac” and “Jumbo Pac” specials with photos of that signature orange chicken against a dark, almost ominous backdrop.
Stepping inside was like entering a genuine time capsule, far removed from the curated “retro” diners. This was the real deal: dusty, a little worn, and faded by the relentless California sun. The fixtures were all original, lending a sense that its very authenticity was fragile, dependent on each original piece holding together.
Interior of Pioneer Chicken restaurant in Boyle Heights
A look inside the Boyle Heights Pioneer Chicken, showcasing its vintage interior with worn booths, faded decor, and classic fast-food counter, evoking a sense of nostalgia.
I ordered a leg and thigh, and sat down to eat. Truth be told, the chicken was surprisingly good. While not competing with the gourmet fried chicken scene, the intensely crunchy breading was undeniably satisfying, with that classic, slightly guilty taste of delicious grease. The texture was unique, almost more akin to fish and chips batter than typical fried chicken, distinguishing it from chains like KFC.
My quest continued the following weekend at the Bell Gardens Pioneer Chicken. This location was noticeably more modern, cleaner, and bustling with activity. The drive-through was consistently busy, and families were placing large orders. I ordered more chicken and this time, Orange Bang. While the chicken remained a nostalgic treat, the Orange Bang, with its overwhelming sweetness, was a reminder that my tastes have evolved, even if my appreciation for greasy, crunchy chicken has not. Despite discarding the sugary drink, the overall experience was, in its own way, magical.
Exterior of Pioneer Chicken restaurant in Bell Gardens
The Bell Gardens Pioneer Chicken exterior, showing a well-maintained building with a prominent Pioneer Chicken sign and drive-thru, highlighting its continued operation and customer traffic.
Los Angeles, despite its image as a city of constant change, often struggles to preserve its own history. Local institutions disappear under rising rents and the relentless march of progress. Pioneer Chicken, in this context, is more than just a fast-food chain; it’s an endangered species, a tangible link to a 1970s Los Angeles that’s rapidly fading. It deserves to be recognized and preserved, much like Bob’s Big Boy, as a historical landmark, not just another site for redevelopment.
Recently, even Hollywood recognized this. Quentin Tarantino, while filming Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, a film set during the Manson era, erected a replica Pioneer Chicken sign in Toluca Lake. Witnessing this, a couple in their 50s wistfully remarked, “God, I wish Pioneer was still around.”
It’s time to spread the word: Pioneer Chicken is still around in Los Angeles. These two locations are more than just restaurants; they are living pieces of Los Angeles history, serving up nostalgia with every crunchy, greasy bite. Go visit, and taste a piece of old LA before it’s gone.
