Chef Lee Anne Wong, renowned for her innovative spirit and culinary prowess honed on Bravo’s Top Chef and at her award-winning O‘ahu brunch spot, Koko Head Café, has embarked on an exciting venture in Maui. She has taken the helm of the historic Pioneer Inn Restaurant in Lahaina, infusing it with her unique vision while honoring its rich past. This iconic establishment, nestled in the heart of Lahaina Harbor, has been a cornerstone of Maui’s hospitality for 120 years, and Wong’s arrival marks an exciting new chapter.
What drew Wong to the Pioneer Inn Restaurant, Maui’s oldest hotel restaurant located in the historic district off Front Street? For Wong, it was the palpable history and, most importantly, the enchanting outdoor courtyard. Despite exploring numerous potential restaurant locations on Maui, she found herself consistently drawn back to the Pioneer Inn. The underutilized courtyard possessed a unique allure, sparking her imagination and setting the stage for a culinary transformation.
When the global pandemic led to a temporary closure, Wong seized the opportunity to completely reimagine the dining experience. Pioneer Inn Grill and Bar was reborn as Papa‘aina at the Pioneer Inn. Papa ‘aina, meaning “eating table” in Hawaiian, reflects the restaurant’s commitment to community and shared dining experiences. The space was revitalized, creating a fresh and modern ambiance that complements Wong’s innovative cuisine, while still nodding to the building’s storied history. A dedicated takeout, coffee, and bakery area was also introduced, catering to a broader range of dining preferences.
Chef Lee Anne Wong and David Croxford at Papa'aina at the Pioneer Inn Restaurant Lahaina, Maui.
Reflecting on the culinary landscape, Wong notes the distinctions between Maui and O‘ahu. O‘ahu, with its larger population, boasts a more extensive and diverse food scene. Maui, while smaller, is experiencing rapid culinary evolution. Wong praises the strong sense of hui, or teamwork, amongst Maui chefs, from established hotel restaurants to independent eateries and food trucks, all contributing to a dynamic and evolving food culture.
Chef Lee Anne Wong’s stewardship of Pioneer Inn Restaurant Lahaina signals an exciting era for this beloved Maui landmark. By blending historical charm with contemporary culinary innovation, Papa‘aina at the Pioneer Inn is poised to become a must-visit dining destination, offering both locals and visitors a taste of Maui’s vibrant present and rich past.
To delve deeper into Lee Anne Wong’s commitment to local agriculture, her experience balancing motherhood and restaurant ownership, and her culinary indulgences, explore the full interview on hawaiimagazine.com.
This article is adapted from “The Wong Way,” originally featured in the November 2020 issue of HONOLULU Magazine. Copies are available at shop.honolulumagazine.com, with print and digital subscriptions accessible at www1.honolulumagazine.com.
