Delving into the annals of brewing history in the Pacific Northwest, the origins of City Brewery present a captivating, albeit complex, narrative. Pinpointing the precise inception of this Walla Walla institution proves challenging, obscured by the scarcity of records from the mid-1850s and the nascent stages of local journalism. While the commonly cited founding year is 1855, attributed to Emil Meyer, a closer examination of historical accounts reveals a more nuanced and intriguing story of Pioneer Brewing in the region.
According to One Hundred Years of Brewing, a comprehensive industry publication from 1903, Emil Meyer is credited as the founder of City Brewery in 1855, establishing it as one of the Pacific coast’s earliest breweries. This account further states that in 1870, John H. Stahl and associates acquired the brewery, with Stahl eventually becoming the sole owner. The brewery continued operations under Stahl’s name, and following his death, his widow maintained the business. Notably, the brewery’s production was dedicated to steam beer until 1888, marking a shift to lager beer production thereafter.
However, the accepted narrative of Emil Meyer as the sole founder in 1855 is brought into question by insights from his great-granddaughter, offering a contrasting perspective on the brewery’s early days.
Emil Meyer’s personal history adds another layer to the story. Born in Braubach, Hesse-Nassau, Germany, on January 1, 1833, Meyer’s journey to Walla Walla followed a period of service with the Army, where he played a role in escorting immigrant wagon trains westward. This military service was crucial in the context of the Northwest Indian Wars (1855-1858), a period of significant conflict that necessitated troop protection for travelers in the Oregon and Washington Territories. The Yakima Wars, commencing in 1855, and the Palouse Wars, concluding in the autumn of 1858, led to a ban on settlement in the region during this tumultuous time.
Historical records indicate that Emil Meyer’s arrival in Walla Walla occurred around 1859, directly contradicting the 1903 publication’s claim of a founding date of 1855. Adding to the timeline discrepancy, the town of Walla Walla itself did not truly take shape until approximately 1858, making an 1855 brewery establishment within the town limits improbable.
Further complicating the narrative is the presence of Joseph Hellmuth in Walla Walla as early as 1858. The 1860 census lists a Joseph Helmeth engaged in the grocery business, while an adjacent entry enumerates Emmel Myer, a 29-year-old brewer from Hesse, Germany. Intriguingly, both Hellmuth and Meyer placed advertisements in the Walla Walla Statesman on December 20, 1861, both promoting the sale of their beer. This raises questions about their relationship – were they competitors vying for the pioneer brewing market, or perhaps operating different facets of the same brewing enterprise?
A historical account from the Walla Walla Union Bulletin of February 24, 1946, provides additional insights, stating, “The business is believed to be the oldest brewery in the Northwest having been founded by John Hellmuth in 1855. The Hellmuth brewery was sold to Emil Meier in 1862 and a deed dated 1864 lists as assets: hops, kettles and a brewery wagon, among other things.” This account suggests a different founding figure, John Hellmuth (likely a misspelling of Joseph Hellmuth), and an earlier founding date.
Other sources reveal that in 1862, Meyer expanded his brewing operations, constructing a larger brewery building in a new location just south of Walla Walla’s city limits. The 1946 newspaper account and the 1864 deed suggest that Meyer acquired an existing brewery from Hellmuth, rather than establishing a completely new one in 1855. Adding to the intricate timeline, in May 1864, Hellmuth sold a brewery to Picard & Businger, but by December of the same year, it reverted back to his ownership, indicating a failed contract.
1864 appears to have been a pivotal year for Hellmuth, as he also established another brewery in Placerville, Idaho Territory, known as the Boise Brewery. The Pacific Coast Directory for 1867 lists “Joseph Helmuth, brewery; liquor & billiards merchant,” highlighting the dual nature of his establishment as both a brewery and a saloon. Placerville’s strategic location as a staging point for the Boise Basin Gold Rush fueled rapid population growth, exceeding 3,000 by 1863, creating a significant demand for beer and the skills of “Lager Beer Joe,” as Hellmuth was known.
From 1864 to 1867, Hellmuth remarkably managed breweries in both Placerville and Walla Walla, locations separated by over 188 miles, a commute facilitated by a tri-weekly stagecoach service. However, with the decline of the gold rush in 1867, Hellmuth closed the Boise Brewery, focusing his efforts on his remaining Walla Walla operation. Records indicate Joseph Hellmuth remained active in the brewery business in Walla Walla as late as 1869.
The Pacific Coast Directory also lists “Meyer & Businger, brewers” in Walla Walla, suggesting that after the failed 1864 deal with Picard & Businger, Businger formed a partnership with Emil Meyer. In 1867, Meyer sold his City Brewery. While records are elusive regarding the buyer’s identity, it is plausible that Businger acquired Meyer’s share of the business, continuing the pioneer brewing legacy.
Emil Meyer’s decision to sell may have been influenced by declining health, as he passed away just months later on February 19, 1868, at the young age of 35. He left behind his 24-year-old widow, Mary Anna Becker, a Prussian immigrant he married on August 7, 1862, and their three young children: Louisa, William Henry, and Josephine.
Joseph Hellmuth outlived Meyer by a mere eight years. Tragically, on the initial leg of a European tour, Joseph and his wife Odelia were passengers on the steamship Pacific, which met a disastrous end, sinking off Cape Flattery on November 11, 1875, claiming approximately two hundred lives. This marked a somber conclusion to the life of another significant figure in Walla Walla’s pioneer brewing history.
