In early September 2020, as devastating wildfires engulfed vast areas across the western United States, we sought refuge in Southwest Montana’s Pioneer Mountains. The wildfires had created hazardous air quality stretching across multiple states, making outdoor adventures challenging. We aimed to find a destination with fewer crowds, favorable weather, and, crucially, cleaner air. The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway emerged as the ideal escape. We anticipated fewer people and a promising weather forecast. The smoke situation, however, remained uncertain anywhere west of the Rockies.
Campsite view in the Pioneer Mountains with Indy the dog
Our journey into the Pioneer Mountains led us along the renowned 49-mile Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway, nestled within the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. This paved route gracefully traverses the entire Pioneer Mountain Range, showcasing granite peaks that soar above 10,000 feet. This byway offers a diverse array of attractions, from camping and hiking to horseback riding, fishing, hunting, historical landmarks, rockhounding, hot springs, and even a ski resort. The Pioneers remain a relatively undiscovered treasure, providing a more tranquil mountain experience compared to Montana’s more frequented destinations like Glacier National Park.
Map showing poor air quality across the Western US
Designated as a scenic byway in 1989, the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway stretches southward from State Highway 43 near Wise River to State Highway 278, situated between Dillon and Jackson. It’s important to note that the byway is seasonally closed from December 1st to May 15th between the Pettingill parking area and Elkhorn Hot Springs due to snow and winter conditions. Its manageable length makes it perfect for a day trip, while the nine conveniently located Forest Service campgrounds invite visitors to extend their stay and fully immerse themselves in the mountain scenery.
Map of Southwest Montana highlighting the Pioneer Mountain Byway route
Camping Under Montana Skies Along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway
Whether you prefer tent camping or traveling in an RV, the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway offers a Forest Service campground to suit your needs. Traveling from north to south along the byway, you’ll encounter a variety of options: Pettengill Campground, Fourth of July Campground, Lodgepole Campground, Boulder Creek Campground, Willow Campground, Little Joe Campground, Mono Creek Campground, Price Creek Campground, and Grasshopper Campground. For tent campers and those with smaller RVs, Willow, Little Joe, and Mono Creek are generally recommended. Most other campgrounds, excluding Pettengill, can easily accommodate larger setups, including our 51-foot truck and travel trailer combination. For RVs significantly longer than ours, it’s advisable to contact the Wise River Ranger Station to confirm campground suitability. We unfortunately missed exploring Pettengill Campground on this trip. If you’ve stayed there, we’d love to hear about your experience!
Detailed map of the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway highlighting campground locations
During our visit, we chose Boulder Creek Campground. We appreciated its shaded campsites that still allowed ample sunlight for our solar panels. It also felt less crowded than nearby Lodgepole Campground, which is popular due to its riverside sites along the Wise River. At Boulder Creek, we secured a pull-through site overlooking the Wise River, although direct river access wasn’t readily available from our specific spot. The campground featured paved access roads and sites, each equipped with a picnic table and fire ring. Potable water was available via a hand pump, and pit toilets were provided, but there was no garbage service, consistent with Leave No Trace principles. The camping fee was a reasonable $8 per night.
Campsite setup in the Pioneer Mountains with camping gear
While exploring the byway, we also noticed numerous attractive dispersed camping sites suitable for free dry camping. On a future visit to the Pioneer Mountains, we plan to explore these dispersed options further. However, for this initial trip, Boulder Creek Campground proved to be an excellent choice for our base camp.
Smoky sunset view from a Pioneer Mountains campsite
A few practical considerations for your Pioneer Mountains adventure: ensure you are well-stocked with supplies and fuel. The Wise River Mercantile offers basic necessities, but its selection is limited. It’s also the only fuel station in Wise River and does not carry diesel. Cell phone and Wi-Fi service are extremely limited in the area. We found a Verizon signal only at the Wise River Ranger Station parking lot.
Hiking Adventures in the Pioneer Mountains
The Pioneer Mountains are a hiker’s paradise. Numerous trailheads are accessible directly from the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway, while others can be reached via I-15 to the east. I had compiled an extensive list of high mountain lake trails to explore during our visit, but unfortunately, we only managed to hike two due to time constraints and the persistent wildfire smoke that obscured the panoramic views we were hoping for. Despite the smoky conditions, the beauty of the area was still evident, and I’ve seen breathtaking photographs of the Pioneer lakes, solidifying our desire to return and conquer our list of postponed hikes when the air is clearer.
Smoky view of Sawtooth Lake in the Pioneer Mountains
Our first hike was to Sawtooth Lake. From Boulder Creek Campground, we drove south along the byway past the turn-off for Maverick Mountain Ski Area. We then turned east onto Clark Creek Road, following the signs to the well-marked trailhead.
The Sawtooth Lake Trail was remarkably well-maintained, except for a section with some recent fallen trees. The initial ascent took us through a recovering burn area from the 2003 wildfire, now densely populated with young lodgepole pines. Shade was minimal in this section. The middle portion of the hike was a pleasant, relatively flat walk alongside Clark Creek through a healthy forest. The final climb to Sawtooth Lake was well-graded, offering glimpses of the surrounding peaks, although the views were somewhat muted by the wildfire smoke.
Closer view of Sawtooth Lake and surrounding mountains under smoky skies
Sawtooth Lake, at an elevation of 8,523 feet, is a stunning alpine lake framed by impressive mountain peaks. Despite the smoky haze, we enjoyed our visit immensely and would gladly hike it again on a clear day to fully appreciate the unobstructed views. Our hike totaled 7.8 miles with a 1,500-foot elevation gain. We encountered very few other hikers, adding to the sense of wilderness and solitude. For a moderate and rewarding hike in the Pioneer Mountains, Sawtooth Lake is an excellent choice.
Our second hike led us to Grayling Lake. While Grayling Lake was geographically close to our campsite, reaching the trailhead by road was a different story. The drive was nearly two hours each way, requiring us to travel north on the Pioneer Mountain Scenic Byway to Wise River, then east on Highway 43 to I-15, south to the Melrose exit, and finally 17 miles west on Trapper Creek Road (gravel) and Canyon Creek Road (dirt), which were slow-going due to washboarding and potholes, to the signed Canyon Creek Trailhead. Even the drive itself was an adventure! Along the way, we made a stop at the intriguing Canyon Creek Charcoal Kilns, which I plan to detail in a future post.
Map showing the longer route to Grayling Lake trailhead
Smoke conditions were quite thick upon our arrival at the Canyon Creek Trailhead, but we started hiking with optimism. The trail immediately crossed Canyon Creek via a sturdy footbridge and continued through the forest on a gentle incline. Occasionally, we caught glimpses of towering peaks in the distance, largely obscured by the smoke. The forest on this eastern side of the Pioneers appeared more lush compared to the western side.
Gravel road leading to Canyon Creek Trailhead for Grayling Lake hike
After 1.75 miles, we reached a signed trail junction. The trail to the right leads to Crescent Lake, a potential backpacking destination for a future trip. We took the Lion Creek Trail to the left, continuing our gradual ascent through the forest. The majority of the elevation gain occurred in the final couple of miles via a superbly engineered series of switchbacks. We passed several viewpoints, and it was clear we were surrounded by impressive mountains, but the smoke had intensified, further limiting our visibility.
View of Grayling Lake surrounded by mountains in smoky haze
Grayling Lake, at 8,728 feet elevation, was breathtaking. Had it been a clear day, it would likely rank as one of the most spectacular lakes we’ve ever encountered. I had initially planned to continue to nearby Lion Lake, rumored to be even more stunning, but time was becoming a constraint, and the added effort didn’t seem worthwhile in the heavy smoke. We both agreed that a backpacking trip to this area is a must for the future. For this visit, we simply enjoyed a peaceful break at the Grayling Lake outlet before beginning our return hike.
Despite the smoke and limited views during our visit, we wholeheartedly recommend the hike to Grayling Lake if you are prepared for the lengthy drive from the byway campgrounds. Our total hike was 11.6 miles with a 1,400-foot elevation gain. We only encountered two other groups on the trail, providing a truly secluded hiking experience. This area is definitely on our bucket list for a future backpacking adventure.
Panoramic view of Grayling Lake and surrounding landscape in smoky conditions
As the air quality continued to worsen, we traded our hiking boots for historical exploration, seeking out the rich history of the Pioneer Mountains region.
More Recreational Activities Along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway
While our Pioneer Mountains trip centered on camping, hiking, and historical sites, the byway offers a wealth of other recreational opportunities that deserve exploration:
Scenic vista from a viewpoint along the Pioneer Mountains Byway before smoke
- Interpretive Sites, Overlooks, and Picnic Areas: Take your time to stop at the well-marked interpretive sites and viewpoints along the byway to learn about the area’s history, geology, and ecology. These spots offer stunning panoramic vistas and perfect picnic locations.
- Elkhorn Hot Springs: This privately owned hot springs resort bills itself as a “rustic getaway in the Grasshopper Valley.” Elkhorn Hot Springs features lodging, a restaurant, and multiple outdoor pools with temperatures ranging from a relaxing 92 to a therapeutic 102 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Maverick Mountain Ski Resort: Discover “Montana’s local secret” at Maverick Mountain Ski Resort. Known for its uncrowded slopes and pristine powder snow, it’s a haven for skiers and snowboarders seeking an authentic Montana ski experience.
- Crystal Park Mineral Collection Area: Try your luck digging for quartz crystals at this unique Forest Service site located along the byway. For a small fee of $5 per vehicle, you can spend the day searching for your own Montana treasures.
- Big Hole River Fishing: The charming community of Wise River provides access to the renowned Big Hole River, a blue-ribbon trout stream. Several local outfitters offer guided fishing trips for anglers of all skill levels.
Nearby Attractions to the Pioneer Mountains
Extend your Pioneer Mountains adventure by exploring these nearby recreational and historical attractions:
Sign for Humbug Spires State Park
Resources for Planning Your Pioneer Mountains Trip
- The Forest Service brochure is an invaluable resource for anyone planning a trip to the Pioneer Mountains National Scenic Byway. This comprehensive guide provides detailed information on campgrounds, trails, points of interest, and more. You can download it here: Forest Service Pioneer Mountains Byway Brochure.
- For up-to-date information on road and trail conditions, we recommend contacting the Wise River Ranger Station. The staff is friendly, knowledgeable, and can provide the latest conditions. Wise River Ranger Station Contact Info.
- Dillon and Butte are the closest towns offering full services, including grocery stores, gas stations, and visitor information centers.
Continue Your Montana Adventure
Stay tuned for our next post, “Montana’s Pioneer Mountains National Scenic Byway Part 2: Historical Sites,” where we’ll guide you through the fascinating historical landmarks along the byway, including the must-see Coolidge Ghost Town and the Canyon Creek Charcoal Kilns.
Exterior view of Coolidge Ghost Town buildings
