Capitol Reef National Park holds more than just stunning landscapes; it’s a canvas etched with the stories of those who came before us. A visit to Capitol Gorge reveals a unique historical record – the Pioneer Register. As you reach the end of the Scenic Drive and embark on an easy stroll into Capitol Gorge, about half a mile from the trailhead, turn your gaze to the north canyon wall on your left. Here, you’ll encounter a remarkable display of names, dates, and places carved, painted, and even shot into the sandstone, marking a form of early Pioneer Registration.
These inscriptions represent a tangible connection to the past, a chronicle left by prospectors, explorers, surveyors, cowboys, early settlers, and curious visitors. Standing on their wagons to reach higher ground, these individuals etched their identities into the canyon walls, a testament to their presence and perhaps a hope for enduring recognition. These markings, safely above the reach of flash floods, serve as a significant log of those who traversed this region, offering invaluable insights into the lives of the men and women who left their marks behind in this natural archive of pioneer registration.
Among the earliest entries in this open-air register are those of two mineral prospectors, J.A. Call and Wal. Bateman. These men, driven by the pursuit of mineral wealth, journeyed through Capitol Gorge on September 20, 1871. Their inscription, including the date and the word “PROSSPECTER,” is a rare glimpse into their story. Beyond these details, little else is known about Call and Bateman. Without their canyon inscription, their likely status as the earliest Euro-American presence in the Capitol Reef region would remain unknown. They were not part of grand, government-sponsored expeditions, unlike the 1872 exploration of Capitol Reef led by Almon Thompson under the larger J.W. Powell Expedition, highlighting the individual initiative behind this early pioneer registration.
The Pioneer Register also features the names of numerous early residents of Fruita and Wayne County, further enriching this historical record of pioneer registration. Names like E.P. Pectol, Aaron Holt, Walter and E.J. Hanks, and members of prominent local families such as the Oyler, Smith, Carrell, and Cook families are all inscribed in the rock. These inscriptions offer a personal touch, connecting the grand landscape to the everyday lives of the people who shaped the early communities around Capitol Reef.
Another noteworthy inscription belongs to C.A. Gibbons, a shop owner from Hanksville. Local lore suggests that Gibbons shared tales with the famous author Zane Grey, providing inspiration for Grey’s 1915 novel, Wildfire. The presence of French archeologists – G. Guiraud, A. Pillaud, P. Brossard, and T. Breard – who left their names on January 30, 1893, while studying regional ruins, adds an international dimension to this historical pioneer registration, demonstrating the area’s appeal to diverse groups even in the late 19th century.
As you make your way back towards the parking lot, look upwards towards the south side of the canyon walls. Near the top of the cliff face, you’ll find a set of four inscriptions belonging to surveyors. Pam Stewart, a descendant of one of these surveyors, recounts the amusing story behind their high-altitude pioneer registration. Her great-uncle, John R. Stewart, and his half-brother Quinby, worked as land surveyors for the state of Utah in 1912. They hired geology students from the University of Utah to assist them during the summer field season.
According to family stories, Quinby devised a prank to play on the new student crew, intending to exaggerate the effects of erosion in Capitol Reef. One evening, while casually leaning against a buckboard wagon, he remarked to the inexperienced students about the rapid rate of erosion. Feigning consultation with John R., he questioned, “Isn’t this the place we were at this time last year?” Later that night, under the cover of darkness, Quinby and John R. secretly returned to the canyon with ropes, hammers, and chisels. They ascended to the top of a sheer 50-foot rock face, where Quinby was lowered down in a rope chair. Suspended precariously, he chiseled their names and “last year’s date” into the rock face in prominent, two-foot-high engineering lettering, creating a fabricated historical pioneer registration to fool their team.
The following day, while working in the canyon, Quinby casually pointed out the inscriptions to the students, claiming, “I think we were standing about here when we carved our names in some rock face…” He then elaborated that he had stood on a wagon bed to reach the height required for the inscription. This elaborate fabrication implied an astonishing 40 feet of erosion had occurred in a single year. The narrative concludes without detailing the students’ reactions, but one can imagine their bewildered amazement at witnessing such seemingly rapid geological change and the subsequent confusion when they perhaps shared this misinformation with their geology professors, highlighting the effectiveness of Quinby’s elaborate prank of staged pioneer registration.
As you continue your exploration of Capitol Reef, remember the importance of preservation. Help protect this National Park by not adding your own marks to the canyon walls. Create your memories, capture the beauty through photographs, and adhere to the principles of Leave No Trace. The Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979 (ARPA) clearly prohibits any form of vandalism, with penalties reaching up to 2 years of imprisonment and/or a $20,000 fine. Please help spread awareness about the illegality of defacing these historical and natural treasures.
If you have any information regarding vandalism within Capitol Reef National Park, please contact the National Park Service immediately. Report any crimes or suspicious activity to the Visitor Center or a National Park Service employee, or call the Capitol Reef tip line at (435) 425-4134.
To find the Pioneer Register and Capitol Gorge, consult the Fruita Map and Guide.
Explore more of Capitol Reef National Park here.
