In May 2018, I found myself enveloped by the serene dawn chorus at Wyoming’s iconic Independence Rock, a moment captured in a field recording that I recently resurrected. My visits to this geological marvel have always been rewarding, with the climb to its summit unveiling breathtaking vistas of the Sweetwater River and the expansive landscapes beyond. But the true depth of Independence Rock lies not just in its views, but in its silent testament to history – the countless names etched into its granite face by 19th-century pioneers traversing the Oregon, Mormon, and California trails. This enduring legacy has rightfully earned it the moniker “Register of the Desert.” This massive Archean granite monolith stands as a natural monument and a historical landmark, rising approximately 130 feet high, stretching 1,900 feet long, and spanning 850 feet wide.
Independence Rock at sunrise on June 4, 2012. Pioneer travelers like R. McCord, who carved his name on July 4, 1850, marked this landmark. Photo by Richard Alan Hannon
Legend paints a vivid picture of the urgency felt by wagon parties aiming to reach Independence Rock by July 4th. This milestone was crucial, signifying their progress and offering a hopeful benchmark for crossing the formidable mountains before winter’s first snows descended. The rock was more than just a landmark; it was a beacon of hope and a testament to their arduous journey westward.
Captured in the YouTube video below is the dawn chorus I recorded on May 21, 2018, where the Sweetwater River gracefully winds alongside Independence Rock. The morning unfolded under clear skies, with the temperature hovering around a crisp 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7C) at a quarter to six.
Listeners should be aware that the recording begins with the distinct honk of a Canada goose flying audibly overhead. Beyond this initial avian interruption, the soundscape is rich with birdsong, including Western meadowlarks, red-winged blackbirds, sandhill cranes, Western willet, and other unidentified voices. I invite bird enthusiasts to share their expertise in identifying the full chorus.
This 7:13 quasi-binaural recording was meticulously captured in stereo using low-noise Luhd PM-01AB microphones paired with a Sony PCM D100 recorder. Ambient noise levels before dawn registered at a quiet 32 dBA. Positioning myself on the rock’s leeward side, I aimed to minimize any sounds from the distant highway, though sporadic truck traffic was still faintly audible. The panoramic image is composed of 18 vertical shots taken with a Fuji X100s camera, stitched together to capture the expansive vista.
Southward view from atop Independence Rock at sunrise on June 4, 2012, showcasing the vast landscape traversed by pioneers. Photo by Richard Alan Hannon
The 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Pioneer Wagon Train Reenactment
In May 1997, I was on assignment for the New York Times, tasked with covering the Sesquicentennial – the 150th anniversary – of the Mormon Pioneer Wagon Train. This significant event saw members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints re-enacting the arduous westward migration of their forebears to Utah’s Salt Lake Valley. This journey paid homage to the thousands who, in the 1800s, braved perilous conditions to cross the country, often relying on handcarts to carry their belongings across over 1,000 miles in 93 days. I joined the reenactors as they departed Casper, Wyoming, heading towards Independence Rock and Martin’s Cove, retracing the historic Mormon Trail.
The image below, which graced the front page of the New York Times, captures the 1997 reenactors at dawn atop Independence Rock. Although printed in black and white, the image marked a moment in history just months before the ‘Gray Lady’ transitioned to full-color printing. More information on this historical shift can be found in the Times’ own account here.
The New York Times front page, June 22, 1997, features pioneer reenactors ascending Independence Rock during the 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment. Photo by Richard Alan Hannon
Below, witness the vibrant color of the front-page image, alongside additional photographs from the 1997 pioneer reenactment, offering a glimpse into this remarkable tribute to history.
Color photograph of 1997 pioneer reenactors at Independence Rock, part of the Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
Pioneer reenactors and wagons at Independence Rock during the 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
A large group of 1997 pioneer reenactors gathered at Independence Rock during the Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
Close-up of pioneer wagons and reenactors at Independence Rock during the 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
A pioneer reenactor repairs a wagon cover at Independence Rock during the 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment. Photo by Richard Alan Hannon
Reenactors with wagons and horses at Independence Rock during the 1997 Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
Wide view of the 1997 pioneer reenactment encampment at Independence Rock during the Sesquicentennial Mormon Trail reenactment.
Mapping Independence Rock
[Map of Independence Rock – Map image would be inserted here if available in original article, but none was present]
Behind the Scenes at Independence Rock
Behind the scenes photograph of the 1997 pioneer reenactment at Independence Rock, showing reenactors and equipment.
