Pioneer Square, steeped in history and urban charm, is constantly evolving, welcoming new establishments that honor its roots while offering fresh experiences. Among the recent gems, Good Bar Pioneer Square stands out not just as a bar, but as a destination. From the moment you step inside, the room itself commands attention. Even on a bustling afternoon, filled with the roar of a nearby game crowd, the sheer beauty of Good Bar shines through.
Good Bar's stunning interior with white-railed loft and marble bar top in Pioneer Square
The space is undeniably striking. A white-railed loft adds a touch of grandeur, while the marble bar top, lined with black tufted barstools, exudes sophisticated comfort. Vintage bank vault doors serve as a nod to Pioneer Square’s rich past, seamlessly blending history with modern urbanity. In many ways, Good Bar feels like a more masculine counterpart to other design-focused spots in the area, offering a robust and refined atmosphere.
Owners Josh and Nancy Kelly envisioned Good Bar as more than just a bar. Chef Josh Kelly, with an impressive culinary background honed at Portland’s Wildwood, the Dahlia Lounge, and Marination Ma Kai, initially dreamt of a full-fledged restaurant. However, the historic landmark status of the building presented limitations, restricting the kitchen to induction burners and a convection oven. This pivot shifted the focus, as Kelly explains, from chasing culinary accolades to creating “a bar with food.” This adaptation, however, proved to be a stroke of genius, allowing Good Bar to excel within its unique constraints.
The beverage program at Good Bar is curated with equal thoughtfulness. Collaborating with Robyn Schumacher, partner at Stoup Brewing, Kelly crafted a beer list that expertly balances local favorites with intriguing global selections. Cocktail aficionado Adam Kachman, recruited from Portland, brings his mastery to the spirits, particularly in the realm of brown liquors. The result is a drink menu that’s both approachable and adventurous. A prime example is Kachman’s creation, “Joe’s Drink,” a complex and aromatic bourbon-based cocktail. It’s a harmonious blend of bitter, tart, and creamy notes, deepened by cherry heering and a smoky hint of burnt lemon – a truly innovative and seamless concoction that exemplifies the bar’s commitment to quality.
When it comes to food at Good Bar Pioneer Square, Chef Kelly implemented a smart strategy: a menu featuring both a star attraction and a solid supporting cast. The undisputed star is the sloppy joe. This isn’t your average sloppy joe; it’s a decadent creation featuring lush Painted Hills beef, sweetened with tomato and enriched by a caramelized onion aioli, further deepened with stout and a slow reduction. Served overflowing from a Macrina ciabatta bun, this is a dish that demands attention – and utensils. Forget trying to eat this with your hands; it’s knife-and-fork fare, a rich and generous serving that redefines the classic.
Good Bar's signature Sloppy Joe, a must-try dish in Pioneer Square
This sloppy joe is more than just good; it’s craveable. In its first six months, it has become a Seattle culinary icon. During visits, it’s a common sight on tables, with regulars popping in specifically for this dish, a testament to its addictive quality and Chef Kelly’s knack for creating memorable flavors, a skill evident from his time at Marination Ma Kai.
Beyond the star player, Good Bar’s menu boasts a deep bench of excellent dishes. Their take on potato salad, a contemporary Seattle trend, is particularly noteworthy. Halved fingerling potatoes, salted and beautifully presented, are paired with an egg-and-mustard aioli dip that elevates this classic to new heights. Kelly himself noted the inspiration behind this dish, stating that early on, they considered it as an innovative alternative to french fries, cleverly working around the kitchen’s fryer limitations.
The kitchen’s resourcefulness shines through in other dishes as well. Steamed mussels are bathed in a flavorful, briny broth of roasted garlic, wine, butter, and kalamata olives. The menu also features a substantial pork loin entree, complemented by mustard seed, bourbon, and maple notes, served atop a rich wedge of blistered scalloped potatoes. For dessert, their ice cream sandwich riff, featuring house-made vanilla ice cream nestled between fudge and a chewy brownie layer, is a delightful and intensely flavored treat.
A refreshing Gin cocktail at Good Bar Pioneer Square
While the majority of the menu hits high notes, there are a few items that might not have universal appeal, though not due to lack of quality. These include a marinated beet salad with creme fraiche, baked oysters with a retro ham and cream topping, sardines with sherry-vinegar beans and gremolata, and boiled peanuts. These dishes, while well-prepared, might be considered more niche in their appeal. The boiled peanuts, for example, are a Southern delicacy that might be an acquired taste for Northwestern palates, especially served in a flavorful but intense Old Bay seasoning broth.
This hints at an interesting dynamic within the Pioneer Square neighborhood itself. The area, situated near stadiums, sees a blend of sports fans and those seeking a more refined dining experience. Good Bar seems to navigate this duality, appealing to both. The staff is consistently friendly and accommodating. However, at times, the service might lack the deep menu expertise one might expect in a bar serving artisan cocktails and charcuterie.
Ultimately, Good Bar Pioneer Square embodies a fascinating blend of sophistication and approachability. It successfully merges elements of high-end cocktail culture with a welcoming, casual bar atmosphere. While it subtly balances between elitism and populism, this is part of its evolving charm. Good Bar is more than just a good bar; it’s a destination in Pioneer Square that’s still defining its perfect blend, and it’s absolutely worth experiencing.
