The echoes of cracking whips and the rumble of wagon wheels mark the passage of pioneers venturing across the vast North American landscape. Between 1840 and 1870, over half a million emigrants embarked westward along the Great Platte River Road, setting forth from various points along the Missouri River. This route, a corridor used for millennia by indigenous peoples, transformed in the mid-1800s into a vital artery for fur trappers, missionaries, soldiers, stagecoach drivers, Pony Express riders, and countless emigrants seeking new opportunities in the Oregon Territory, the Great Basin, and the California goldfields.
The primary path of this corridor largely followed the Platte and North Platte Rivers for over 600 miles, before tracing the Sweetwater River and ultimately crossing the Continental Divide at South Pass, Wyoming. Beyond this crucial point, the route branched out, each path forged by pioneers in search of better routes to diverse destinations. The significance of the trail diminished with the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, yet it remained in limited use into the early 20th century.
An Exodus: The Mormon Pioneer Trail
The year 1846 stands out as a pivotal moment in the history of the American West. It was a year marked by the outbreak of war with Mexico, the tragic journey of the Donner-Reed party into unimaginable hardship, and the commencement of one of the most meticulously organized mass migrations in American history. The participants in this migration, the Mormons, were destined to establish thriving communities in what many perceived as a desolate desert.
From 1846 to 1869, more than 70,000 Mormons traversed a critical section of the westward routes, known as the Mormon Pioneer Trail. This trail originated in Nauvoo, Illinois, crossed Iowa, connected with the Great Platte River Road at the Missouri River, and culminated near the Great Salt Lake in Utah. Predominantly utilizing existing trails, the Mormon Pioneer Trail served as the pathway for tens of thousands of Mormon emigrants seeking a new home and sanctuary in the Great Basin. Their collective efforts led to the establishment of the State of Deseret, which later evolved into the Utah Territory, and finally, the State of Utah.
The Trail Experience: Trials and Triumphs
The Mormon pioneers shared common hardships with other westward travelers: the weariness of countless miles on foot, choking dust clouds, fierce thunderstorms, treacherous mud, extreme temperatures, contaminated water sources, scarce forage, illness, and the ever-present specter of death. They documented their experiences in journals, diaries, and letters, which have become an invaluable part of American heritage.
However, the Mormon migration was unique in its nature. Their relocation to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake was not entirely voluntary; driven by the need to preserve their religious and cultural identity, they sought an isolated region where they could settle permanently and practice their faith in peace. This was a movement of an entire people, a complete religious community, and a distinct culture, fueled by deep religious conviction and unwavering determination.
The Mormon pioneers quickly adapted and became highly organized. They traveled in a structured, almost military manner, divided into companies of 100s, 50s, and 10s. Discipline, diligent work, mutual support, and religious observances were integral to their daily routine on the trail. Foreseeing that others would follow, they improved the trail and established essential support facilities. Businesses, such as ferry services, were created to help finance the ongoing migration. They relied on existing trails, maps, accounts from early explorers, and information gathered from travelers and frontiersmen encountered along the way, rather than hiring professional guides. They even designed and built an early odometer to accurately track their mileage. Ultimately, their strong communal spirit and exceptional organization made the Mormon migration more systematic and efficient compared to other emigrant groups heading to Oregon and California.
The Search for a Home: Origins of the Mormon Church
The Mormon pioneer experience is deeply intertwined with the formation, growth, and evolution of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Joseph Smith founded the church on April 6, 1830, in Fayette, New York. Mormon history recounts that Joseph Smith translated The Book of Mormon from golden plates delivered to him by an angel. This book became the foundational text of the new faith, and the term “Mormon” became synonymous with its adherents.
The church’s headquarters shifted successively to Ohio, Missouri, and by the spring of 1839, to Nauvoo, Illinois. Nauvoo remained the center until 1846, when the church embarked on its westward migration beyond the Rocky Mountains to the then-unsettled Mexican territory in the Great Basin. Mormon leaders hoped to find refuge from ongoing harassment, hostility, and persecution in this remote area. Church membership grew rapidly between 1830 and 1845, and the church prospered. However, this growth was accompanied by increasing hostility, fear, and controversy. Factors contributing to this included the rapid expansion of church membership, the financial success of its members and the church itself, religious beliefs that diverged from mainstream Christian traditions, the practice of plural marriage (polygamy), the existence of a large, well-armed militia, the blurring of lines between church and state, and a perception among some non-Mormons that the church posed a threat. These tensions escalated tragically on June 27, 1844, when Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum were murdered by a mob while imprisoned in Carthage, Illinois.
By 1845, the Mormon population in Nauvoo and the surrounding areas had exceeded 11,000, making it one of the largest cities in Illinois. In September 1845, opponents burned over 200 Mormon homes and farm buildings outside Nauvoo in an attempt to forcibly expel the Mormons.
Church leaders had considered relocation to the Far West as early as 1842, with Oregon, California, and Texas initially considered as potential destinations. In 1844, Joseph Smith acquired John C. Fremont’s map and report, which detailed the Great Salt Lake and its fertile surrounding valleys. Subsequently, the Rocky Mountains and the Great Basin emerged as the most promising areas for settlement.
Heading West: Establishing the Trail in 1846 and 1847
The initial Mormon exodus from Nauvoo to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake unfolded in two primary phases: one in 1846 and another in 1847. The 1846 segment, traversing Iowa to the Missouri River, covered approximately 265 miles. The subsequent 1847 segment, from the Missouri River to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, extended over 1,000 miles.
The Trek of 1846: Iowa and Winter Quarters
The departure from Nauvoo commenced on February 4, 1846, under the leadership of Brigham Young, who succeeded Joseph Smith as head of the Mormon Church. After crossing the Mississippi River, the journey across Iowa followed rudimentary territorial roads and indigenous trails. The initial group reached the Missouri River on June 14 of that year, having spent more than four months on this segment of the journey. Some emigrants established a settlement named Kanesville on the Iowa side of the river, while others crossed the river to the area of present-day North Omaha, Nebraska, and built a camp called Winter Quarters.
The Mormons initiated their departure from Nauvoo earlier than originally planned due to the revocation of their city charter, mounting rumors of U.S. government intervention, and fears of federal troops being deployed against the city. This premature departure exposed them to harsh winter conditions. Heavy rains later transformed the rolling plains of southern Iowa into a muddy morass. Furthermore, many lacked adequate provisions for the journey. The severe weather, general unpreparedness, and inexperience in managing such a large-scale migration collectively amplified the hardships they encountered.
Alt Text: A wagon train of Mormon pioneers crossing the plains, illustrating the scale of the westward migration.
Along this initial segment of the Mormon Pioneer Trail, the pioneers developed essential skills for moving en masse. They established several semi-permanent camps, including Garden Grove and Mount Pisgah, where they cultivated crops and constructed facilities to support those following behind. It was during this phase of the journey that Brigham Young first organized the emigrants into companies of 100s, 50s, and 10s. The lessons learned during the Iowa crossing proved invaluable for subsequent Mormon emigrant companies.
The Trek of 1847: Across the Plains to the Salt Lake Valley
The longest portion of the journey commenced at Winter Quarters on April 5, 1847, and concluded on July 24, 1847, when Brigham Young entered the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. This leg of the journey proceeded more smoothly than the previous year’s trek due to improved organization, better provisions, and a departure timed to coincide with optimal trail conditions.
The lead pioneer party consisted of 148 individuals (143 men, three women, and two young boys), 72 wagons, 93 horses, 66 oxen, 52 mules, 19 cows, 17 dogs, and some chickens. This carefully selected group was structured into two large divisions and further subdivided into companies of 50 and 10. This organizational framework was based on Brigham Young’s comprehensive plan for westward migration, which also included detailed guidelines for camp conduct and religious practices to be observed during the journey. The trail across the Great Plains largely followed the north side of the Platte and North Platte Rivers. At Fort Laramie, the Mormons crossed to the south side of the river, merging with the Oregon Trail. Approximately 100 miles further, near present-day Casper, Wyoming, they departed from the North Platte River. They then followed the Sweetwater River for nearly 100 miles and crossed the Continental Divide at South Pass. At Fort Bridger, they diverged from the Oregon Trail, following a route initially suggested by California promoter Lansford Hastings and first traversed in 1846 by four companies of emigrants bound for California. These companies had blazed two distinct routes into the Salt Lake Valley. The Mormons followed the faint, year-old tracks of the ill-fated Donner-Reed party through the challenging Wasatch Mountains.
The final 116 miles, from Fort Bridger to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, were the most arduous. The pioneers were weary, their wagons worn, and their livestock weakened by nearly 1,000 miles of travel. Passage through the narrow, willow-choked canyons and over the tree-covered slopes and rocky ridges of the Wasatch Range was so slow that it took the pioneer party 14 days to complete this segment. On July 22, 1847, when Thomas Bullock first fully viewed the valley, he exclaimed, “hurra, hurra, hurra, there’s my home at last.”
Upon reaching the valley, the pioneer party immediately began planting late-season crops. In the following weeks, they laid out streets, constructed temporary shelters, and prepared for the approaching winter. Mormon emigrants continued to arrive throughout the remaining weeks of summer and fall, and approximately 1,650 people spent their first winter in the valley. Shortly after their arrival, Brigham Young and numerous members of the pioneer party returned to Winter Quarters to reunite with their families and organize the following spring’s migration to the valley.
Over the next two decades, roughly 70,000 Mormons would travel to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake using wagons and handcarts. Overland wagon travel declined after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, which offered emigrants a faster rail route across the plains.
The Ones Who Walked: Handcarts and Determination (1856-1860)
A distinctive aspect of the Mormon migration was the use of handcarts between 1856 and 1860. Handcarts, two-wheeled carts pulled by emigrants instead of draft animals, were seen as a quicker, simpler, and more economical means of transporting European converts to Salt Lake City. Approximately 3,000 Mormons, with 653 handcarts and 50 supply wagons, in 10 different companies, made the journey to Salt Lake City. While not the first to use handcarts, the Mormons were the only group to utilize them extensively for westward migration.
These handcarts were modeled after carts used by street sweepers and were constructed almost entirely of wood. They were typically six to seven feet long, wide enough to fit within a narrow wagon track, and could be either pushed or pulled. The small boxes attached to the carts were three to four feet long and eight inches high, capable of carrying about 500 pounds, primarily consisting of trail provisions and minimal personal belongings.
The majority of handcart companies completed the journey with minimal issues. However, the fourth and fifth companies, known as the Martin and Willie companies, departed from Winter Quarters in August 1856, a dangerously late start for crossing the plains. They encountered severe winter weather west of present-day Casper, Wyoming, and tragically, hundreds perished from exposure and starvation before rescue parties could reach them. These events, while exceptional, underscored the critical importance of the departure date from the trailhead for a successful journey.
Alt Text: Mormon handcart pioneers pulling their carts across the plains, highlighting this unique mode of transportation on the Mormon Pioneer Trail.
The Mormon Pioneer Trail Today: A National Historic Trail
Congress formally established the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail as part of the National Trails System on November 10, 1978. This historic trail commemorates the 1846-47 journey of the Mormon people from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. The designated corridor spans nearly 1,300 miles and is managed through a collaborative effort involving private landowners, trail associations, state and local agencies, the National Park Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the USDA Forest Service. Land ownership along the trail consists of 822 miles (64 percent) of private land, 264 miles (20 percent) under federal management, and 214 miles (16 percent) in state and local ownership. While much of the original trail is no longer visible, some segments and historical sites remain accessible to visitors. Long stretches of the trail are still discernible in Wyoming. Visiting sites on private land requires obtaining permission from the landowner.
Key dates from the 1846 and 1847 treks from Nauvoo, Illinois, to Utah are highlighted below, accompanied by quotations from contemporary diaries and letters that offer firsthand accounts of those years.
February 4, 1846: First wagons depart Nauvoo and cross the Mississippi River.
The great severity of the weather, and … the difficulty of crossing the river during many days of running ice, all combined to delay our departure, though for several days the bridge of ice across the Mississippi greatly facilitated the crossing….
—Brigham Young, February 28, 1846
April 24, 1846: Garden Grove, the halfway point across Iowa, is reached. This site was one of several semi-permanent camps established for the use of subsequent emigrants.
June 14, 1846: Brigham Young arrives at the banks of the Missouri River.
September 1846: Winter Quarters is established on the Nebraska shore of the Missouri River. Approximately 4,000 people spent the winter here.
November 1846: Father Pierre de Smet, a Jesuit missionary, visits with the Mormons in Winter Quarters and provides information about the Great Basin area.
April 5, 1847: The first group, led by Brigham Young, departs Winter Quarters.
I walked some this afternoon in company with Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea affixing a set of wooden cog wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact number of miles we travel each day.
—William Clayton, April 19, 1847
May 26, 1847: Emigrants pass Chimney Rock.
In advance of us, at a great distance can be seen the outlines of mountains, loftier than any we have yet seen … their summits… covered with snow.
—Horace Whitney, June 23, 1847
June 27, 1847: Mormons cross South Pass, the Continental Divide.
. . . and beholding in a moment such an extensive scenery open before us, we could not refrain from a shout of joy which almost involuntarily escaped from our lips the moment this grand and lovely scenery was within our view.
—Orson Pratt, July 21, 1847
July 24, 1847: Brigham Young arrives in the Valley of the Great Salt Lake.
Exploring the Trail: Key Sites and Landmarks Along the Mormon Pioneer Trail Map
The Mormon Pioneer Trail is rich with historical sites and landmarks that offer tangible connections to this significant chapter in American history. Using a Map Of The Mormon Pioneer Trail can greatly enhance the experience of exploring these locations, allowing visitors to trace the pioneers’ journey and understand the geographical context of their migration.
The restored city of NAUVOO in Illinois provides a starting point, featuring open spaces, historic homes, shops, and the residences of Joseph Smith and Brigham Young. Across the Mississippi River from Nauvoo lies MONTROSE, Iowa, where the first Mormons crossed and organized themselves for the trek across Iowa at SUGAR CREEK CAMP.
An advance party established GARDEN GROVE in Iowa on April 25, 1846. Within two weeks, they developed 300 acres, planted crops, built log houses, and prepared materials for further construction. Garden Grove served as a way station until 1852.
Named after its biblical counterpart, MOUNT PISGAH in Iowa also functioned as a way station until 1852.
The Mormons referred to the area encompassing present-day COUNCIL BLUFFS, Iowa, as KANESVILLE. This location’s significance in westward expansion dates back to 1804, when Lewis and Clark met with indigenous peoples nearby. Kanesville became a crucial staging area for pioneers heading west.
WINTER QUARTERS, located in North Omaha, Nebraska, was the primary encampment for the Mormons during the winter of 1846-47 as they prepared for the westward journey.
The ELKHORN RIVER FERRY in Nebraska marked the first major river crossing west of the Missouri. At a site later known as LIBERTY POLE CAMP, the 1847 Mormon emigrants organized themselves in a military fashion to enhance travel efficiency and safety.
Mormon pioneers invented a “roadometer,” or odometer, at the suggestion of William Clayton. The location where it was first used is now known as ODOMETER START in Nebraska.
SCOTTS BLUFF and CHIMNEY ROCK in Nebraska were prominent landmarks along the trail. The grave of REBECCA WINTERS, one of the few identified graves of the approximately 6,000 Mormons who died during the plains crossing, is located near Scotts Bluff.
Alt Text: Scotts Bluff National Monument, a prominent landmark along the Mormon Pioneer Trail in Nebraska, serving as a navigational guide for pioneers.
The early trading post of FORT LARAMIE in Wyoming rapidly evolved into a vital resupply point for emigrants and a major military fort. Here, the Mormon and Oregon-California trails converged.
REGISTER CLIFF in Wyoming features thousands of names carved into its sandstone surface, with several hundred still legible. The GUERNSEY RUTS, deep wagon wheel ruts reaching depths of five feet, are situated three miles west of Register Cliff.
MORMON FERRY, established in June 1847, was the first commercial ferry service on the Platte River. The FORT CASPAR museum in Wyoming houses a full-scale replica of the original ferry.
Near INDEPENDENCE ROCK in Wyoming, named by fur trappers who first camped there on July 4, 1830, emigrants reached the refreshing waters of the Sweetwater River. Many names and dates remain visible on the rock’s surface.
The MARTIN HANDCART COMPANY of 1856 was caught in a severe blizzard in October. Rescue wagons from Salt Lake City brought essential food and clothing. The company sought temporary refuge at MARTIN’S COVE in Wyoming. Although approximately 150 individuals perished, over 425 handcart pioneers were saved.
The WILLIE HANDCART COMPANY was also caught in the same October 1856 blizzard along the Sweetwater River. Rescue wagons at the Sweetwater River and ROCK CREEK in Wyoming helped save around 430 of the 500 emigrants who crossed ROCKY RIDGE to camp at Rock Creek.
SOUTH PASS, Wyoming, was known as the “Cumberland Gap of the Far West.” Pioneers crossed the Continental Divide here on a gentle grade that was relatively easy for wagons.
Mormon pioneers used rafts to float wagons across the GREEN RIVER in Wyoming. In 1847, they established a ferry (later known as LOMBARD FERRY) and provided commercial service for travelers.
FORT BRIDGER, Wyoming, one of two “stations” on the trail at the outset of the 1847 pioneer journey, later became a military post. The Mormons purchased the fort in 1855 to supply emigrant parties.
The narrow, 16-mile gorge of ECHO CANYON in Utah impressed pioneers with its distinct echoes. The canyon also contains stone breastworks constructed in 1857 to defend against a potential invasion by Federal troops to suppress rumors of a Mormon rebellion.
LITTLE EMIGRATION CANYON in Utah was one of the final ascents before reaching the Salt Lake Valley. A 4-mile hiking trail now extends from MORMON FLAT to BIG MOUNTAIN PASS, where emigrants first glimpsed their new home. An additional hiking trail continues another 5 miles from the pass summit down Dell Canyon to Little Dell Reservoir.
DONNER HILL in Utah was the Donner-Reed party’s last obstacle entering the Salt Lake Valley in 1846. The arduous climb over Donner Hill, among other delays, significantly contributed to the tragic events that unfolded in the Sierra Nevada later that year.
THIS IS THE PLACE HERITAGE PARK in Salt Lake City commemorates the arrival at TRAIL’S END. A 60-foot monument honors the Mormon pioneers and other explorers of the Great Basin. Upon entering the Salt Lake Valley and reaching Trail’s End, Mormon pioneers immediately began establishing a permanent settlement through farming, building shelters, and developing local trades.
Exploring the Mormon Pioneer Trail using a map allows for a deeper appreciation of the distances traveled and the diverse landscapes encountered by these pioneers. Numerous resources are available to help plan a visit and learn more about the trail.
For further information on the history of the trail, site locations, or traveling segments of the trail, please contact:
National Historic Trails Interpretive Center
1501 N. Poplar Street
Casper, WY 82601
www.blm.gov
Historical Department Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
50 E. North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT 84150
National Park Service National Trails System-Salt Lake City
324 South State Street Suite 200
P.O. Box 45155
Salt Lake City, UT 84145
Internet Information
www.nps.gov/mopi
http://history.utah.gov/partners/mta
www.liscoplus.com/~iowamormontr
Auto Tour Route Guides
Interpretive guides providing descriptions and driving directions to trail sites are available for download from the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail website: www.nps.gov/mopi
Source: NPS Brochure (2004)
| Establishment | Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail — November 10, 1978 |
|---|---|
| For More Information | Please Visit The OFFICIAL NPS WEBSITE |
Documents
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guides (National Historic Trails):
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The Mormon Pioneer Trail Across Iowa in 1846 (Map) (April 2007)
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Nebraska and Northeastern Colorado (Map) (August 2006)
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Across Wyoming (Map) (July 2007)
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Utah — Crossroads of the West (Map) (September 2010)
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Comprehensive Plan and Finding of No Significant Impact: Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (September 1981)
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Historic Resource Study: Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (HTML edition) (Stanely B. Kimball, May 1991)
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Interpretive Plan, Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (April 27, 1992)
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Long-Range Interpretive Plan, Oregon, California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National Historic Trails (August 2010)
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Management Plan, Oregon/Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trails (BLM, 1986)
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Narrative of the March of Company A, Engineers from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to Fort Bridger, Utah, and Return, May 6 to October 3, 1858 (William P. Seville and John W.N. Schulz, 1912)
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The 1854 Mormon Emigration at the Missouri-Kansas Border (Fred E. Woods, extract from Kansas History: The Journal of the Central Plains, Vol. 32 No. 4, Winter 2009-2010)
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The Mormon Trail: A Study Report (June 1978)
Videos
