To the rhythmic sounds of taut harnesses and the groan of wagon wheels, pioneers forging westward expansion ventured across the vast North American continent. Between 1840 and 1870, over half a million emigrants journeyed west along the Great Platte River Road, departing from points along the Missouri River. This route, a corridor traversed for millennia by American Indians, transformed in the mid-1800s into the primary artery for waves of European trappers, missionaries, soldiers, teamsters, stagecoach drivers, Pony Express riders, and emigrants seeking opportunity in the Oregon Territory, Great Basin, and the goldfields of California.
The main route of this corridor predominantly traced the Platte and North Platte Rivers for over 600 miles, then paralleled the Sweetwater River before ascending the Continental Divide at South Pass, Wyoming. Beyond South Pass, the path diverged into multiple branches, each pioneered by emigrants seeking more efficient routes to various destinations. While the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 diminished its significance, the route remained in limited use into the early 20th century.
An Exodus and the Mormon Pioneer Trail
The year 1846 holds a significant place in the history of the American West. It marked the onset of the Mexican-American War, the ill-fated journey of the Donner-Reed party into unimaginable winter horrors, and the commencement of the most meticulously organized mass migration in American history. The participants of this migration, the Mormons, were destined to establish thriving communities in a region widely perceived as a desolate wasteland.
From 1846 to 1869, more than 70,000 Mormons traveled along a crucial segment of the westward trails: the Mormon Pioneer Trail. This trail originated in Nauvoo, Illinois, traversed Iowa, connected with the Great Platte River Road at the Missouri River, and culminated near the Great Salt Lake in Utah. Largely following pre-existing routes, the Mormon Pioneer Trail served as the pathway for tens of thousands of Mormon emigrants to a new home and sanctuary in the Great Basin. Their collective efforts led to the establishment of the State of Deseret, which later became the Utah Territory, and ultimately, the State of Utah. Understanding this journey is greatly enhanced by exploring a Mormon Pioneer Trail Map, which visually represents their arduous route and key landmarks.
The Shared Trail Experience
The Mormon pioneers faced experiences common to all westward travelers: the relentless monotony of walking hundreds of miles, choking dust clouds, violent thunderstorms, thick mud, extreme temperature fluctuations, contaminated water sources, scarce forage for livestock, disease, and the ever-present specter of death. They meticulously documented their trials and tribulations in journals, diaries, and letters, creating a poignant record that has become an invaluable part of American heritage.
However, the Mormon migration held a unique character. Their relocation to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake was not entirely a matter of choice. To preserve their religious and cultural identity, they sought an isolated region where they could establish a permanent settlement and practice their faith without persecution. This was a movement encompassing an entire people, an entire religion, and an entire culture, propelled by profound religious conviction and unwavering determination. A Mormon pioneer trail map helps to visualize the scope of this ambitious undertaking and the geographical challenges they overcame to achieve their goal of religious freedom.
The Mormon pioneers quickly demonstrated remarkable organizational skills. They adopted a semi-military structure, organizing themselves into companies of 100s, 50s, and 10s. Discipline, diligent work ethic, mutual support, and religious observances were integral to their daily routine on the trail. Anticipating that others would follow, they improved the trail and established essential support facilities. Businesses, such as ferry services, emerged to help finance the ongoing migration. Instead of relying on professional guides, they utilized existing trails, consulted maps and accounts from earlier explorers, and gathered intelligence from travelers and frontiersmen encountered along the way. They even invented an early odometer to accurately measure their daily progress. Ultimately, their strong communal unity and meticulous organization rendered the Mormon migration more systematic and efficient than other emigrant movements heading towards Oregon and California.
The Search for a Permanent Home and the Mormon Church
The Mormon pioneer experience is inextricably linked to the genesis, expansion, and evolution of their church. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints was founded by Joseph Smith on April 6, 1830, in Fayette, New York. Mormon history recounts that Joseph Smith translated The Book of Mormon from golden plates delivered to him by an angel. This text became the cornerstone of the new faith, and “Mormon” became the designation for adherents of these beliefs.
The church’s headquarters relocated successively to Ohio, Missouri, and, in the spring of 1839, to Nauvoo, Illinois. Nauvoo remained the center until 1846, when the church embarked on its westward exodus beyond the Rocky Mountains into what was then unsettled Mexican territory within the Great Basin. Mormon leaders hoped to find refuge from ongoing harassment, antagonism, and persecution in this remote region. Church membership grew rapidly between 1830 and 1845, and the church prospered materially. However, the church also faced hostility, fear, and controversy. Factors contributing to this included rapid membership growth, the financial success of church members and the church itself, religious beliefs diverging from mainstream Christian traditions, the practice of plural marriage (polygamy), a large, well-equipped militia, the blurring of lines between church and state, and perceptions among some non-Mormons that the church posed a threat. These tensions escalated tragically on June 27, 1844, when Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum were murdered by a mob while imprisoned in Carthage, Illinois.
By 1845, the Mormon population in and around Nauvoo had swelled to over 11,000, making it one of Illinois’ largest cities. In September 1845, opponents burned over 200 Mormon homes and farm buildings outside Nauvoo in an attempt to coerce the Mormons to leave.
Church leaders had considered a move to the Far West as early as 1842, with Oregon, California, and Texas initially considered as potential destinations. In 1844, Joseph Smith acquired John C. Frémont’s map and report, which highlighted the Great Salt Lake and its surrounding fertile valleys. Subsequently, the Rocky Mountains and the Great Basin emerged as the most promising locations for settlement. Examining a Mormon pioneer trail map from this era reveals the ambitious nature of this relocation, charting a course into largely uncharted territory based on limited geographical knowledge.
Heading West and Establishing the Trail
The initial Mormon movement from Nauvoo to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake unfolded in two phases: one in 1846 and another in 1847. The first phase, spanning across Iowa to the Missouri River, covered approximately 265 miles. The second phase, from the Missouri River to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, extended over 1,000 miles. A Mormon pioneer trail map illustrates these segments, highlighting the different terrains and challenges encountered in each.
The Trek of 1846
The departure from Nauvoo commenced on February 4, 1846, under the leadership of Brigham Young, who succeeded Joseph Smith as head of the Mormon Church. After crossing the Mississippi River, the journey across Iowa followed rudimentary territorial roads and Indian trails. The vanguard party reached the Missouri River on June 14 of that year, having spent over four months traversing Iowa. Some emigrants established a settlement named Kanesville on the Iowa side of the river, while others crossed the river into the area of present-day North Omaha, Nebraska, constructing a camp called Winter Quarters.
The Mormons initiated their departure from Nauvoo earlier than initially planned due to the revocation of their city charter, escalating rumors of U.S. government intervention, and fears of federal troops being deployed against the city. This premature departure exposed them to severe winter conditions. Subsequent heavy rains transformed the rolling plains of southern Iowa into a treacherous quagmire of axle-deep mud. Furthermore, many emigrants lacked adequate provisions for the journey. The inclement weather, general unpreparedness, and inexperience in managing such a large-scale migration all contributed to the hardships they endured.
Image of Mormon Pioneer Trail Map
Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail Map: A detailed map showcasing the route from Nauvoo, Illinois to Salt Lake City, Utah, highlighting key landmarks and trail segments.
Crossing the Plains and the Trek of 1847
Along this initial segment of the trail, the Mormons refined their skills in large-scale migration. They established several semi-permanent camps, including Garden Grove and Mount Pisgah, where they cultivated crops and built facilities to support subsequent emigrants. It was during this phase of the journey that Brigham Young first organized them into companies of 100s, 50s, and 10s. The lessons learned while crossing Iowa proved invaluable for future Mormon companies.
The longest leg of the journey began at Winter Quarters on April 5, 1847, and concluded on July 24, 1847, when Brigham Young entered the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. This phase of the journey proceeded more smoothly than the previous year’s trek due to improved organization, better supplies, and commencing the journey when trail conditions were more favorable.
The lead pioneer party consisted of 148 individuals (143 men, three women, and two young boys), 72 wagons, 93 horses, 66 oxen, 52 mules, 19 cows, 17 dogs, and some chickens. This carefully selected group was divided into two large divisions, further subdivided into companies of 50 and 10. This organizational structure was based on Brigham Young’s meticulously crafted plan for westward migration. The plan also detailed camp protocols and religious practices to be observed throughout the journey. Consulting a Mormon pioneer trail map would have been crucial for leaders in organizing these divisions and planning daily routes.
The trail across the Great Plains stretched for hundreds of miles along the north side of the Platte and North Platte Rivers. At Fort Laramie, the Mormons crossed to the south side of the river, joining the Oregon Trail. Approximately 100 miles later, near present-day Casper, Wyoming, they departed from the North Platte River. They then followed the Sweetwater River for nearly 100 miles and crossed the Continental Divide at South Pass. At Fort Bridger, they diverged from the Oregon Trail, adopting a route initially suggested by California promoter Lansford Hastings and pioneered in 1846 by four companies of emigrants bound for California. These companies had blazed two distinct routes into the Salt Lake Valley. The Mormons followed the faint, year-old tracks of the ill-fated Donner-Reed party through the Wasatch Mountains. A detailed Mormon pioneer trail map would show these crucial junctions and route changes, essential for navigation and understanding the journey’s complexity.
The final 116 miles, from Fort Bridger to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, proved to be the most arduous. The pioneers were exhausted, their wagons were worn, and their livestock weakened by nearly 1,000 miles of travel. Passage through the narrow, willow-choked canyons and over tree-covered slopes and rocky ridges of the Wasatch Range was so slow that it took the pioneer party 14 days to complete this segment. On July 22, 1847, Thomas Bullock, upon catching his first full glimpse of the valley, exclaimed, “hurra, hurra, hurra, there’s my home at last.”
The pioneer party immediately began planting late-season crops upon reaching the valley. In the following weeks, they laid out streets, constructed temporary shelters, and prepared for the approaching winter. Mormon emigrants continued to arrive throughout the remaining weeks of summer and fall, and approximately 1,650 people spent their first winter in the valley. Shortly after their arrival, Brigham Young and many members of the pioneer party returned to Winter Quarters to reunite with their families and organize the next spring’s migration to the valley.
Over the subsequent 20 years, approximately 70,000 Mormons traveled by wagons and handcarts to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. Overland wagon travel declined after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, which offered a faster and less demanding means of crossing the plains.
The Handcart Companies: Walking the Trail
A distinctive aspect of the Mormon migration was the use of handcarts. Handcarts, two-wheeled carts pulled by emigrants themselves rather than draft animals, were employed as an alternative mode of transportation from 1856 to 1860. They were perceived as a quicker, simpler, and more economical way to transport European converts to Salt Lake City. Nearly 3,000 Mormons, with 653 handcarts and 50 supply wagons, traveled in 10 different companies along the trail to Salt Lake City. While not the first to utilize handcarts, they were the only group to employ them extensively. The routes taken by handcart companies would also be depicted on a comprehensive Mormon pioneer trail map, showcasing variations and common paths.
Handcarts were modeled after carts used by street sweepers and were constructed almost entirely of wood. They typically measured six to seven feet in length, wide enough to fit within a narrow wagon track, and could be either pushed or pulled. The small boxes attached to the carts were three to four feet long and eight inches high, capable of carrying approximately 500 pounds, primarily consisting of trail provisions and a few personal belongings.
All but two of the handcart companies completed the journey with relatively few major problems. However, the fourth and fifth companies, known as the Martin and Willie companies, departed Winter Quarters in August 1856—a dangerously late start for crossing the plains. They encountered severe winter weather west of present-day Casper, Wyoming, and hundreds perished from exposure and starvation before rescue parties could reach them. While these tragedies were exceptional, they underscored the critical importance of the departure date from the trailhead for a successful journey. Examining a Mormon pioneer trail map in the context of these handcart journeys highlights the vast distances and the critical timing required for safe passage.
The Mormon Pioneer Trail Today
Congress formally established the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail as part of the National Trails System on November 10, 1978. This historic trail commemorates the 1846-47 journey of the Mormon people from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. The designated corridor stretches nearly 1,300 miles and is managed through a collaborative effort involving private landowners, trail associations, state and local agencies, the National Park Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the USDA Forest Service. Land ownership along the trail comprises 822 miles (64 percent) of private land, 264 miles (20 percent) under federal management, and 214 miles (16 percent) under state and local ownership.
While much of the original trail is no longer physically visible, certain segments and sites remain accessible to visitors. Long stretches of the trail are still discernible in Wyoming. Visiting sites on private land requires obtaining permission from the landowner. Today, a Mormon pioneer trail map serves as a guide for those wishing to explore the historical route, locate significant landmarks, and understand the geographical context of this pivotal migration.
Important dates from the 1846 and 1847 treks from Nauvoo, Illinois, to Utah are well-documented, often accompanied by quotations from contemporary diaries and letters that vividly depict those years.
February 4, 1846: First wagons depart Nauvoo and cross the Mississippi River.
The great severity of the weather, and … the difficulty of crossing the river during many days of running ice, all combined to delay our departure, though for several days the bridge of ice across the Mississippi greatly facilitated the crossing….
—Brigham Young, February 28, 1846
April 24, 1846: Garden Grove, the halfway point across Iowa, is reached. This was one of several semi-permanent camps established for the use of later emigrants, locations that can be pinpointed on a Mormon pioneer trail map.
June 14, 1846: Brigham Young arrives at the banks of the Missouri River.
September 1846: Winter Quarters is established on the Nebraska shore of the Missouri River. Approximately 4,000 people spent the winter here, a crucial location marked on any Mormon pioneer trail map.
November 1846: Father Pierre de Smet, a Jesuit missionary, visits with the Mormons in Winter Quarters and provides information about the Great Basin area, knowledge that would have informed the mapping and planning of the subsequent journey.
April 5, 1847: The first group, led by Brigham Young, departs Winter Quarters.
I walked some this afternoon in company with Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea affixing a set of wooden cog wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact number of miles we travel each day.
—William Clayton, April 19, 1847
May 26, 1847: Emigrants pass Chimney Rock, a prominent landmark frequently featured on historical Mormon pioneer trail maps.
In advance of us, at a great distance can be seen the outlines of mountains, loftier than any we have yet seen … their summits… covered with snow.
—Horace Whitney, June 23, 1847
June 27, 1847: Mormons cross South Pass, the Continental Divide, a geographically significant point clearly indicated on any Mormon pioneer trail map.
. . . and beholding in a moment such an extensive scenery open before us, we could not refrain from a shout of joy which almost involuntarily escaped from our lips the moment this grand and lovely scenery was within our view.
—Orson Pratt, July 21, 1847
July 24, 1847: Brigham Young arrives in the Valley of the Great Salt Lake, the final destination marked on every Mormon pioneer trail map.
Exploring the Mormon Pioneer Trail Today Using a Map
Numerous sites along the Mormon Pioneer Trail offer opportunities for exploration and historical immersion. A Mormon pioneer trail map is an essential tool for planning visits and understanding the geographical context of these locations.
The restored city of NAUVOO features open spaces, historic homes, shops, and the Joseph Smith and Brigham Young houses, marking the trail’s eastern starting point on any Mormon pioneer trail map. After leaving Nauvoo in 1846, the first Mormons crossed the Mississippi to MONTROSE. They organized themselves for the trek across Iowa at SUGAR CREEK CAMP, the initial campsites documented on early Mormon pioneer trail maps.
An advance party established camp at GARDEN GROVE on April 25, 1846. Within two weeks, they cleared 300 acres, planted crops, built log houses, and prepared materials for further construction. This site served as a way station until 1852, a significant point along the Iowa section of a Mormon pioneer trail map.
Named after its biblical counterpart, MOUNT PISGAH also functioned as a way station until 1852, another key location to identify on a Mormon pioneer trail map.
The Mormons referred to the area later known as COUNCIL BLUFFS as KANESVILLE. Its significance to western expansion dates back to 1804, and it became a major staging area for pioneers heading west, prominently featured on maps of westward expansion including the Mormon Pioneer Trail.
WINTER QUARTERS (North Omaha) was the primary encampment for the Mormons during the winter of 1846-47, a crucial location for resupply and reorganization, and thus a vital point on any Mormon pioneer trail map.
The ELKHORN RIVER ferry marked the first major river crossing west of the Missouri. At LIBERTY POLE CAMP, the 1847 Mormon emigrants organized themselves militarily for improved travel efficiency and safety, a stop often noted on detailed Mormon pioneer trail maps.
Mormon pioneers invented a “roadometer” at ODOMETER START, inspired by William Clayton. Previously, Clayton tracked distance by counting wheel revolutions, highlighting the pioneers’ ingenuity in navigation and mapping.
SCOTTS BLUFF and CHIMNEY ROCK were major landmarks on the trail, easily identifiable geographical features used for navigation and thus prominently displayed on Mormon pioneer trail maps. The grave of REBECCA WINTERS, one of the few identified graves of the estimated 6,000 Mormons who perished crossing the plains, is located nearby, a somber reminder of the trail’s hardships, sometimes marked on detailed historical maps.
FORT LARAMIE, initially a trading post, evolved into a vital resupply point and a major military fort. Here, the Mormon and Oregon-California trails converged, a critical junction clearly depicted on any comprehensive Mormon pioneer trail map.
REGISTER CLIFF bears thousands of names carved into its sandstone, with hundreds still legible. The GUERNSEY RUTS, deep wagon wheel ruts, are located nearby, physical remnants of the trail often highlighted in trail guides and maps.
MORMON FERRY was the first commercial ferry on the Platte River, established in June 1847, a key logistical point marked on maps of the trail. FORT CASPAR museum houses a full-scale replica of the original ferry, offering a tangible connection to the trail’s history.
INDEPENDENCE ROCK, named by fur trappers, marked the point where emigrants reached the refreshing waters of the Sweetwater River. Many names and dates are still visible on the rock face, a landmark of immense historical significance along the trail, always indicated on Mormon pioneer trail maps.
The MARTIN HANDCART COMPANY of 1856 encountered a devastating blizzard and found temporary refuge at MARTIN’S COVE after rescue efforts, a tragic episode in trail history often highlighted on maps and historical markers.
The WILLIE HANDCART COMPANY also suffered in the same 1856 blizzard and received aid at ROCK CREEK, after crossing ROCKY RIDGE, another location of hardship and resilience along the trail, marked on detailed maps.
SOUTH PASS, known as the “Cumberland Gap of the Far West,” was where pioneers crossed the Continental Divide with relative ease, a geographically crucial point clearly shown on any Mormon pioneer trail map.
Mormon pioneers utilized rafts and ferries to cross the GREEN RIVER, establishing LOMBARD FERRY for commercial service, another important river crossing point on trail maps.
FORT BRIDGER, initially a trading post, became a military post and later Mormon-owned, serving as a crucial supply station on the trail, a significant landmark on Mormon pioneer trail maps.
ECHO CANYON, a narrow gorge, impressed pioneers with its acoustics and later served as a defensive point, a notable geographical feature along the trail, often indicated on detailed maps.
LITTLE EMIGRATION CANYON and DONNER HILL represent the final challenging climbs before reaching Salt Lake Valley, with hiking trails now marking the route from MORMON FLAT to BIG MOUNTAIN PASS, allowing modern explorers to trace the final leg of the journey using available trail maps.
THIS IS THE PLACE HERITAGE PARK in Salt Lake City features a monument honoring the Mormon pioneers and other Great Basin explorers, marking TRAIL’S END, the culmination of the westward journey, and the western terminus depicted on every Mormon pioneer trail map.
By consulting a Mormon pioneer trail map, both historical and contemporary, individuals can gain a deeper understanding of the Mormon migration, trace the routes taken, and appreciate the immense scale and historical significance of this remarkable journey.
For further information on the history of the trail, site locations, or trail exploration, please contact:
National Historic Trails Interpretive Center
1501 N. Poplar Street
Casper, WY 82601
www.blm.gov
Historical Department Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
50 E. North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT 84150
National Park Service National Trails System-Salt Lake City
324 South State Street Suite 200
P.O. Box 45155
Salt Lake City, UT 84145
Internet Information
www.nps.gov/mopi
http://history.utah.gov/partners/mta
www.liscoplus.com/~iowamormontr
Auto Tour Route Guides
Downloadable interpretive guides with driving directions to trail sites are available from the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail website: www.nps.gov/mopi
Source: NPS Brochure (2004)
| Establishment | Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail — November 10, 1978 | For More Information Please Visit The OFFICIAL NPS WEBSITE |
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Documents
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guides (National Historic Trails):
The Mormon Pioneer Trail Across Iowa in 1846 (Map) (April 2007)
Nebraska and Northeastern Colorado (Map) (August 2006)
Across Wyoming (Map) (July 2007)
Utah — Crossroads of the West (Map) (September 2010)
Comprehensive Plan and Finding of No Significant Impact: Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (September 1981)
Historic Resource Study: Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (HTML edition) (Stanely B. Kimball, May 1991)
Interpretive Plan, Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail (April 27, 1992)
Long-Range Interpretive Plan, Oregon, California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National Historic Trails (August 2010)
Management Plan, Oregon/Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trails (BLM, 1986)
Narrative of the March of Company A, Engineers from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to Fort Bridger, Utah, and Return, May 6 to October 3, 1858 (William P. Seville and John W.N. Schulz, 1912)
The 1854 Mormon Emigration at the Missouri-Kansas Border (Fred E. Woods, extract from Kansas History: The Journal of the Central Plains, Vol. 32 No. 4, Winter 2009-2010)
The Mormon Trail: A Study Report (June 1978)
Videos
