Pioneer Blvd in Los Angeles, especially on a bright Saturday afternoon, is an experience unlike any other. Imagine stepping into a world where the fragrant air is thick with Indian spices, where vibrant saris shimmer in shop windows, and the rhythmic beats of bhangra music spill onto the bustling sidewalks. This is Pioneer Blvd La, a street that pulsates with life, color, and an intoxicating blend of cultures. Here, jewelry artists display their intricate creations alongside snack shops brimming with tempting treats, and Bollywood posters promise cinematic spectacles. Music is the lifeblood of Pioneer Blvd LA, flowing from Jeeps, restaurants, and music stores. Sometimes it’s the soulful strains of a sitar or the passionate vocals of a quwaali singer, but more often it’s the infectious thump of Bombay-produced house music. The air itself is a feast for the senses, carrying the sweet, pungent scent of saffron, the earthy aroma of incense, and the enticing fragrances of cardamom, ginger, and grilled meats. Life on this unique boulevard moves at a gentler pace, a welcome contrast to the LA hustle. Even the local classifieds reflect a deep-rooted culture, with personal ads as meticulous about caste as those found in traditional Indian publications.
Pioneer Blvd, as it meanders through Artesia, might just be the most unique street in America. It’s a place where a gentleman in a scarlet turban and dagger draws no second glances, where a woman in shimmering mauve silk feels perfectly at ease, and where nose rings are more common than anywhere else, even surpassing the trends of Silver Lake in the 90s. Finding fresh turmeric is as easy as finding fresh milk here, and purchasing a gold anklet is as simple as buying a wristwatch or a roll of tape. Samosas are as ubiquitous as tacos, and bhel puri rivals potato chips in popularity within the mini-malls that line this vibrant boulevard. Pioneer Blvd LA is a true melting pot, yet it retains a distinct South Asian soul, making it a must-visit destination in Los Angeles.
My introduction to the magic of Pioneer Blvd came through the late DJ Jac Zinder, a musical explorer who unearthed treasures for his club sets from the seemingly endless $2 bins outside the local grocery stores. He discovered Bengali versions of Michael Jackson hits, infectious Punjabi disco tracks, captivating Bollywood film scores, and heart-wrenching ghazals on well-worn cassettes. Jac was a familiar face to many merchants on Pioneer Blvd, who would eagerly unearth vintage Bombay fan magazines from dusty backrooms and even mischievous videos from beneath counters. He also became an expert on the local culinary scene, raving about the now-gone vegetarian delights at Sabra, the incredible ragda pattis – a flavorful yellow-pea stew topped with crispy fried noodles – at Jay Bharat, the simple yet sublime eggplant curry at The India Restaurant, and the explosively flavorful papri chaat at Ambala Sweets, a spicy, chutney-soaked mix of pastry and potatoes. These culinary gems, recommended by Jac, became my own gateways to the authentic tastes of Pioneer Blvd LA.
Stepping back in time, forty years ago, this area was a world of Dutch dairy farms and Portuguese seafarers, alongside Dutch-speaking Indonesians who made their home here after World War II. Traces of this earlier neighborhood are still visible along Pioneer Blvd if you know where to look. Susie’s Deli, a delightful Indonesian restaurant just a short walk from the main strip, is one such place. Here, you might hear more Dutch than English spoken, although the universal languages of bakmi goreng and fried chicken with candlenuts transcend any linguistic barriers. Artesia Bakery, a local landmark for almost half a century, draws a diverse crowd eager for its deceptively simple Dutch pastries. Almond turnovers, baked apples encased in pastry, and the cream-cheese-filled floppen are just a few of the treats on offer, not to mention an astonishing 60 varieties of Dutch cookies, ranging from delicate cat’s tongues to spicy gingerbread windmills, and charming pink valentine hearts to buttery Artesia Girls. And the boerekaas in the deli’s cold case, a smooth, nutty aged Gouda, might just be the perfect cheese to enrich a bowl of hot macaroni. These enduring establishments serve as delicious reminders of the layered history of Pioneer Blvd LA.
While the last Portuguese restaurant, The Navigator, closed its doors a decade ago, the spirit of Portugal lingers at Portazil Pastry. This deli still stocks a selection of spicy linguica sausage and imported sardines, alongside crusty Portuguese bread and delicate pastries filled with sweet ground almonds. For a truly satisfying taste of Portugal on Pioneer Blvd LA, try Portazil’s presunto sandwich, a masterpiece of flavorful, aged Portuguese ham served on a roll with sharp white cheese – a sandwich that rivals the best in Los Angeles.
Pioneer Boulevard’s culinary landscape extends beyond South Asia and Europe. It also boasts a variety of Chinese restaurants, from the classic Cantonese barbecue at Sam Woo to the Cambodian-influenced noodles at Kim Tar, and the refined Hong Kong-style seafood at Great Seafood House. The northern end of Pioneer Blvd LA leans towards Korean cuisine, while the southern end is dotted with elegant, if somewhat generic, Chinese establishments. Despite the diverse culinary offerings, attempts to officially rename the area “Little India” or even mark it as such on freeway exits have consistently been met with local resistance. This vibrant mix of cultures is part of what makes Pioneer Blvd LA so unique.
However, Indian commerce and culture remain the heart and soul of Pioneer Blvd LA. The numerous regional Indian restaurants tend to be genuinely authentic – when serving Gujarati dishes in an area populated by Gujaratis, authenticity becomes paramount to remind customers of the flavors of home. (Of course, there are exceptions, like the buffet at Little India Grill, which might evoke memories of any college-town Indian diner).
Ashoka the Great, despite sharing a Punjabi-influenced menu similar to many Indian restaurants in California – tandoori chicken, garlic naan, saag paneer – elevates even the simplest dishes. Here, the papadum, those thin, taco-sized crackers, are infused with seeds and aromatics, and the bright red pickled carrot sticks are bursting with pungent black mustard seeds. Ashoka is the place to indulge in tandoori specialties: garlicky naan and potato-stuffed paratha, of course, but especially the succulent skinless chicken legs, flavorful fish kebabs, and spiced minced-lamb sausages marinated in yogurt, all flash-cooked in a scorching clay oven and served sizzling on a bed of onions on a heated steel platter. For an authentic and elevated Indian dining experience on Pioneer Blvd LA, Ashoka the Great is a must.
Just a block or two away, the spectacular and energetic Ambala Dhaba, with its bhangra-blasting ambiance, showcases another facet of robust northern Indian cuisine: straightforward, intensely flavored food that is almost Islamic in its culinary approach and Pakistani in its fiery intensity. It’s hard to imagine a more satisfying dish than their goat curry, a vibrant red stew practically humming with cumin. The Ludhiana chicken, a smoky, tandoor-roasted bird, is generously encrusted with coarsely ground spices, reminiscent of top-tier Jamaican jerk chicken. Even the dal is exceptional, complex and deeply seasoned, like great Creole red beans. And for a sweet finish, the pistachio “milkshake,” made with homemade kulfi (Indian ice cream), is simply magnificent. Ambala Dhaba offers a truly immersive and flavorful North Indian experience on Pioneer Blvd LA.
For a more upscale Indian dining experience on Pioneer Blvd LA, Rajdoot, located on the northern edge of the neighborhood, is often considered Little India’s “fancy” restaurant. With its soft lighting, gentle fragrances, cloth napkins, and bowls of breath-freshening cardamom pods, Rajdoot exudes an air of elegance. While each dish is slightly pricier than at the more casual eateries down the street, the cuisine is refined and sophisticated. Rajdoot is not your typical “curry joint.” Dishes like peas with fresh cheese, navratan korma (a vegetable stew), and herbacious stewed okra are creamier, more elegantly presented, and more intricately spiced than you’ll find elsewhere in Little India, closer to chef-driven cuisine than to traditional home cooking. Yet, despite the richness, a meal at Rajdoot feels no heavier than an average Italian dinner in Melrose.
While Madhu’s Dasaprakash, the long-standing South Indian restaurant in the area, is a few blocks away in Cerritos, the newer Udipi Palace, linked to a South Indian vegetarian chain, is a worthwhile destination on Pioneer Blvd LA. A must-try is their dramatic thali combination, a large metal platter laden with small bowls of lentil broth, cauliflower curry, stewed chickpeas, and fragrant lemon rice. Udipi Palace’s saffron-infused, Madras-style noodle pudding is also a delightful treat. Udipi Palace brings the authentic flavors of South India to Pioneer Blvd LA.
To truly experience Pioneer Blvd LA like a local, follow the Indian tradition and conclude your evening with a stroll to Standard Sweets for a piece of their exquisite silver-leafed carrot halvah, creamy ras malai, and a comforting cup of milky masala chai. It’s Little India’s equivalent of a post-dinner espresso and cannoli after a seafood feast on Mulberry Street, a perfect sweet ending to your Pioneer Blvd LA exploration.
PIONEER BOULEVARD RESTAURANTS
All in Artesia: Ambala Sweets, 18433 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-0006; Ambala Dhaba, 18413 Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-7990; Artesia Bakery, 18627 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 865-1201; Ashoka the Great, 18614 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 809-4229; Great Seafood House, 18329 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 860-7794; The India Restaurant, 17824 Pioneer Blvd., (562) 860-5621; Jay Bharat, 18701 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 924-3310; Kim Tar, 18309 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-0969; Little India Grill, 18383 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 924-7569; Portazil Pastry, 18159 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 865-1141; Rajdoot, 11833 E. Artesia Blvd., (562) 860-6500; Standard Sweets & Snacks, 18600 Pioneer Blvd., (562) 860-6364; Susie’s Deli, 12238 Artesia Blvd., Artesia, (562) 860-7272; Udipi Palace, 18635 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 860-1950.
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