Ketchikan, Alaska, a town rich in history and known for its stunning natural beauty, also holds a unique culinary heritage. Walking through Ketchikan, one can’t help but notice the ebb and flow of businesses, especially restaurants. As a long-time resident, the recent closure of The Pizza Mill, a former high school hangout, sparked a reflection on the enduring eateries that have truly stood the test of time in Ketchikan. This led me to consider the Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan, among other local establishments, and its remarkable history.
In a town where restaurants often seem to have a fleeting existence, with an average lifespan feeling like just six months, establishments that survive for decades are not just businesses; they are landmarks. Thinking back to my high school days, only a few restaurants from that era remain. Besides the Pioneer Cafe, Diaz Cafe and the Clover Pass Resort also come to mind as survivors. Of course, my personal history in Ketchikan only spans around 40 years. There were legendary spots before my time, such as The Fireside and The Narrows, which locals said had been around since Ketchikan’s early days. Sadly, these venerable places closed their doors about twenty years ago.
My memories also include tales of the original “Toot and Tell” drive-in. It was a local favorite until a hurricane in 1968 caused its collapse. Later, it relocated and transformed into various restaurants until The Galley finally brought stability to that location two decades ago. I also recall the Harbor Inn, primarily because it was the only place open 24/7 back then. For night owls like myself, a full meal at 3 am there was a welcome option. Eventually, the Harbor Inn became part of the Pioneer Cafe, further cementing Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan’s place in local history.
Other names from Ketchikan’s restaurant past, like the Blue Fox, the Peter Pan, Howard’s Char Broiler, the Northland Café, and Hamburger Heaven, are now just names, fading from active memory. To jog my memory, I recently rediscovered a 1978 Ketchikan Guide, a publication for both visitors and residents from the Ketchikan Daily Fish Wrap. 1978 was the year after I graduated high school and left for college. Looking through the guide’s restaurant listings was like revisiting my high school dining haunts.
In 1978, the Amphibian Room was still operating. This place was legendary. Eating there while waiting for Grumman Gooses and PBYs to take off or land at the Annette Island Airport was always a treat. Even though the last seaplanes had departed five years prior, the Amphibian Room was still in business. It later went through several iterations, including the popular Roller Bay, before becoming The Dockside Diner, which is a worthy successor to the Amphibian’s legacy.
The Anchor Inn, located at 832 Water Street in 1978, also has a history. It was previously known as Myrtle’s Confectionary, a favorite stop for my mother and me when we would walk from the West End to downtown Ketchikan on pleasant days. Front Street, now known as Jewelry Row, also had a couple of eateries back then. Angela’s Delicatessen was around until the early 1980s when I returned to Ketchikan. The Heritage restaurant next door eventually became Charlies, though my memory on the exact transitions sometimes gets hazy.
And then there was the Pioneer Cafe, already an old favorite in 1978, having been around for a long time even then. Located on Front Street, Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan was a staple. The Rendezvous restaurant was just around the corner; I believe it later became Jimbo’s before transforming into Tanzanite R Us. The 1978 guide also lists Clover Pass Resort, Diaz Cafe, the Narrows Supper Club, the Pizza Mill, June’s Cafe, and the Fireside as operating, along with Kay’s Kitchen in Bar Harbor, another local favorite. Oh, how I miss Kay’s spaghetti dinners! (My second favorite Ketchikan meal, after Mrs. Sund’s Friday Baked Halibut!). Its replacement, “The Bar Harbor,” serves some pretty good food, but Kay’s was special.
In 1978, The Landing was known as the Hilltop Restaurant, part of the Hilltop Hotel (now the Best Western). It was indeed located at the bottom of a hill, a detail that amuses me in retrospect. Ketchikan in those days had several “view” restaurants where the scenic backdrop was as much a draw as the food. The Narrows offered views of the South End lights, and the Old Hickory House (originally Yancy Derringers), where my high school class of ’77 held our senior prom, provided a lovely panorama of Bar Harbor and the waterfront. Sadly, the Old Hickory House is now part of a shipping container lot – a reminder of how quickly things change.
However, the most spectacular view was from The Spar Tree or The Helm, located on the 11th floor of the Marine View Hotel and Convention Center. While it didn’t rotate like the Space Needle Restaurant, it undoubtedly had the best restaurant view in Ketchikan. The prices, as I recall, were also sky-high. I remember taking my mother there for her birthday one year and, in a moment of generosity, also invited my girlfriend. A financial miscalculation ensued when they both ordered steak and lobster, leaving me to ponder the “ice and water special” to manage the bill.
While McDonald’s is often credited with introducing fast food to Ketchikan, that’s not entirely accurate. Although McDonald’s has dominated the fast-food scene for over two decades, both Dairy Queen and Kentucky Fried Chicken arrived in Ketchikan earlier, several years before McDonald’s. Unfortunately, neither lasted very long. Dairy Queen, initially setting sales records due to its opening coinciding with a large influx of teens for the Southeast Basketball Tournament, became a series of other businesses before turning into a video store. Kentucky Fried Chicken also went through various incarnations, most recently a barbeque restaurant that unfortunately didn’t even make it to its first anniversary.
Despite the transient nature of many Ketchikan restaurants, some constants remain. Diaz Cafe, for example, consistently serves what many consider the best cheeseburger in town. In general, dining in Ketchikan is as unpredictable as the weather. If you are not satisfied with the current options, just wait a bit; a new place is likely to open soon. However, if you find a restaurant you love, cherish it, as it might disappear within six months. Restaurant failures are, unfortunately, a recurring theme in Ketchikan’s culinary landscape. Yet, through it all, Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan continues to serve as a culinary and historical anchor in our community.
For further reading on related Ketchikan history, consider these articles:
- Remember The Fireside? By June Allen
- THE TOOT ‘N’ TELL: Herb and Peg’s masterpiece By June Allen
