Ketchikan, Alaska, a city known for its stunning natural beauty and rich history, also harbors a fascinating, if somewhat volatile, culinary scene. Restaurants in this vibrant Alaskan town seem to appear and disappear with the seasons, making the longevity of certain establishments all the more remarkable. While beloved eateries often become cherished memories, a few steadfast spots have managed to withstand the test of time, continuously serving the community and visitors alike. Among these enduring icons, the Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan Ak stands out as a true testament to Ketchikan’s evolving, yet historically grounded, food culture.
In a town where the average restaurant lifespan sometimes feels shorter than a salmon run, the Pioneer Cafe in Ketchikan AK is an anomaly, a comforting constant in a sea of change. It’s a place that evokes nostalgia for locals and offers a genuine taste of Ketchikan’s history to newcomers. Reflecting on the transient nature of dining in Ketchikan prompts a deeper appreciation for the institutions that have persevered, becoming woven into the very fabric of the community.
Thinking back to the Ketchikan of yesteryear, the landscape of restaurants is dramatically different. Where once stood bustling local favorites, now there might be entirely different businesses, or perhaps nothing at all. The Pizza Mill, for instance, a significant high school hangout for many, including myself, recently closed its doors after a commendable 30-year run. While its closure wasn’t entirely unexpected given the challenging climate for Ketchikan restaurants, it sparked a reflection on other eateries that have either stood the test of time or, at least, my own time in this unique Alaskan city.
Going back a few decades, to my high school days, the list of surviving restaurants dwindles significantly. Of those operating then, only a handful remain: the Pioneer Café, Diaz Café, and Clover Pass Resort. While my personal history in Ketchikan spans approximately 40 years, even within that timeframe, legendary establishments have come and gone. The Fireside and the Narrows, for example, were long-standing institutions, rumored to have been around since the early days of Ketchikan’s development. However, these venerable spots faded into history around twenty years ago, leaving behind only fond memories.
I also missed the era of iconic places like the original “Toot and Tell” drive-in. Devastatingly, the Hurricane of 1968 claimed the drive-in when I was just nine years old. It was relocated and transformed into a series of different restaurants before The Galley eventually brought stability to that location two decades ago. The Harbor Inn also holds a place in my memories, primarily because it was the only 24-hour establishment in town back then. For night owls, a full meal at 3 am was a welcome option. Interestingly, the Harbor Inn eventually merged into the Pioneer Cafe, further solidifying the Pioneer’s long-term presence in Ketchikan’s dining scene.
Other names from Ketchikan’s culinary past, like the Blue Fox, the Peter Pan, Howard’s Char Broiler, the Northland Café, and Hamburger Heaven, are now just names, echoes of a bygone era. Whether they were still operating during my youth is uncertain; memories fade with time.
Fortunately, sometimes a trigger can jog those fading memories back to life. Recently, I stumbled upon a tattered copy of the 1978 Guide to Ketchikan. This annual publication, created by the Ketchikan Daily Fish Wrap, served both visitors and residents. 1978 was the year after I graduated high school and ventured off to Los Angeles for college. Although I was absent for much of that year, the guide’s list of local restaurants serves as a nostalgic menu of places I frequented during my high school years.
In 1978, the Amphibian Room was still in operation. Now that’s a legendary spot I vividly recall. Eating there while waiting to board Grumman Gooses and PBYs for the Annette Island Airport was always a special experience. The same held true when picking up returning travelers. Even though the last flights had departed five years prior, the Amphibian Room persevered. Of course, it eventually transitioned through various iterations, including the once-popular Roller Bay. The current restaurant at that location, The Dockside Diner, is a worthy successor to the legacy of the great Amphibian Room.
The Anchor Inn was located at 832 Water Street in 1978. Its previous incarnation was Myrtle’s Confectionary, a favorite stop for my mother and me during our “walks to town” from the West End on pleasant days. Jewelry Row on Front Street also hosted a couple of eateries in those days. Angela’s Delicatessen remained open at least until my return to Ketchikan in the early 1980s. The Heritage, situated next door, morphed into Charlies, a briefly popular establishment, if my memory serves me correctly (and sometimes it doesn’t!).
Also on Front Street was an old favorite – even in 1978, it had been around for a considerable time – the Pioneer Café. The Rendezvous was just around the corner; I believe it later became Jimbo’s before transforming into Tanzanite R Us. Of course, the Clover Pass Resort, Diaz Café, the Narrows Supper Club, the Pizza Mill, June’s Café, and the Fireside were all operating in 1978, along with Kay’s Kitchen, a beloved Bar Harbor spot.
Oh, how I long for one more spaghetti dinner at Kay’s! (My second favorite Ketchikan meal, surpassed only by Mrs. Sund’s Friday Baked Halibut!). Its replacement, “The Bar Harbor,” does offer some pretty darn good food, though. In 1978, The Landing, as it’s known today, was the Hilltop Restaurant. The entire hotel (now the Best Western) was named the Hilltop back then, and it was, indeed, located at the bottom of a hill. Go figure.
Several “view” restaurants graced Ketchikan during that era, where the food was decent, but the panoramic vistas were the main attraction. The Narrows, of course, was a prime location for admiring the twinkling lights of the South End. The Old Hickory House (originally Yancy Derringers) offered a stunning view of Bar Harbor and the waterfront. (Our Class of ’77 senior prom was held there; now, it’s part of a shipping container lot – such is history!). However, the most breathtaking view was from a restaurant alternately named The Spar Tree or the Helm, situated on the 11th floor of the Marine View Hotel and Convention Center. It didn’t rotate like the Space Needle Restaurant, but it undoubtedly offered the best dining view in town. And the prices, as I recall, were quite sky-high.
One year, I took my mom there for her birthday. My girlfriend mentioned she had never dined there, so I invited her along. Big mistake. My girlfriend ordered first, opting for the steak and lobster. My mom, thinking it was her treat, also ordered steak and lobster. After a quick assessment of my financial situation, I ordered the ice and water special for $9.99. I remember paying the tip with a handful of loose change – it was all I had left.
Many people believe McDonald’s introduced the fast-food restaurant concept to Ketchikan, but that’s not entirely accurate (although the local McDonald’s has dominated the fast-food scene for over 20 years). Back in 1978, local drive-ins like Mattle’s and the Drift Inn were present, along with some major national names. Dairy Queen and Kentucky Fried Chicken both opened in Ketchikan several years before McDonald’s. Unfortunately, neither lasted more than a few years.
Dairy Queen, which initially set all-time opening sales records because it opened during the weekend when 500 extra teenagers were in town for the Southeast Basketball Tournament, became a succession of other businesses before finally transforming into a video store. Kentucky Fried Chicken also went through a series of different businesses, most recently housing a barbeque restaurant that sadly didn’t even celebrate its first anniversary.
While some culinary constants exist in Ketchikan (Diaz Café will forever have the best cheeseburger!), restaurants in Our Fair Salmon City are much like the weather – ever-changing. If you’re not satisfied with the current options, just wait a little while. A new place is bound to open up. Of course, if you do find a place you love, it will probably be gone in six months. Restaurant failures are always on the menu in Ketchikan. Yet, through all the fleeting culinary trends and closures, the Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan AK remains, a steadfast beacon for those seeking a taste of Ketchikan’s enduring spirit and flavors. It stands as a reminder that while change is inevitable, some classics are timeless.
Related Stories:
Remember The Fireside? By June Allen
THE TOOT ‘N’ TELL: Herb and Peg’s masterpiece By June Allen
Dave Kiffer is a freelance writer living in Ketchikan, Alaska. Contact Dave at [email protected]
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