Like many enthusiasts, I often find myself captivated by the elegance of Victorian gowns, dreaming of a time filled with layers, rich colors, ribbons, and the distinct sophistication of that era. Being a woman deeply rooted in the Southwest – an Arizona native and a Daughter of Utah Pioneers, now residing in Denver – this fascination has naturally led me to consider pioneer clothing. I’ve been particularly intrigued by how frontier fashions in the American West diverged from the established styles of Eastern cities during the same period.
The clothing choices of pioneer women were far from simple. Balancing practicality with a sense of decorum and personal style, their wardrobes were a testament to resilience and adaptation. My initial research into their essential garments has revealed some fascinating insights, and this post is just the beginning of a deeper exploration. Join me as we uncover the world of Pioneer Clothes.
Defining the Frontier Context
For this discussion, “frontier” refers to the regions west of Missouri and Arkansas, primarily between 1850 and 1890. The pioneer clothes discussed here largely represent the wardrobes of women homesteaders and those living in settlement communities, specifically focusing on white settlers journeying westward from the East.
What I find truly captivating is that pioneer clothing was less about social status or extravagant purchases and more about the shared experience and determination of families pursuing their dreams in the uncharted West. It was a unique blend of necessity and adaptation that defined their style.
The Foundation: Pioneer Underclothes
Interestingly, the undergarments worn by women in frontier areas weren’t drastically different from those in eastern cities. The chemise, a light cotton slip, was a fundamental piece, prioritized for hygiene and frequent washing. Pantalets, made of flannel or cotton, followed, serving modesty purposes – essentially, they were the precursor to modern underwear.
Contrary to my initial assumptions about pioneer clothes being purely utilitarian, corsets were a common undergarment for many frontier women, worn over the chemise and pantalets. Many women venturing west were driven by the hope of a better future for their families, fueled by economic opportunity or religious conviction. These were women who considered themselves “proper” and maintained standards of dress deemed essential at the time.
While corsets might have been loosened or even forgone for strenuous housework, most pioneer women brought corsets with them and wore them whenever feasible. They were an integral part of pioneer clothes, representing a connection to their past lives and societal norms.
Petticoats, another beloved garment, came next. Like their dresses, pioneer women often had several petticoats, choosing them based on the formality of the occasion or the weather. Stockings were essential when leaving the house or receiving guests, often held up by garters or tucked into pantalets – a method that sounds rather uncomfortable, yet was a common practice in pioneer clothes.
Fabrics of the Frontier: Practicality and Pioneer Clothes
Calico was the undisputed fabric of choice for pioneer clothing. While often associated with quaint floral prints, calico is actually a plain-woven fabric made from unbleached and unprocessed cotton, slightly lighter than canvas. Its qualities—lightweight, durable, and easy to clean—made it ideal for the outdoor lifestyle of the frontier. General stores offered calico in various dyed options, or women would dye it themselves using commercial dyes or natural pigments derived from leaves, bark, berries, or fruits.
Cotton and silk fabrics were still reserved for “Sunday best” and more formal dresses. Pioneer women often brought a few finer outfits with them from the East, representing a link to their previous lives and a desire to maintain a sense of occasion even in the wilderness.
Fabrics were available at general stores, though accessibility varied depending on location. In more remote areas, families often resorted to homespun fabrics, a craft in itself, but that’s a topic for another time when discussing pioneer clothes and textile production.
Daily Life and Pioneer Work Clothes
Pioneer woman in daily wear
Alt text: Pioneer woman in simple pioneer clothes, wearing a long-sleeved dress and apron, standing outdoors, illustrating daily wear for women on the frontier.
Regardless of their backgrounds in the East, women in frontier settlements were essential contributors to the establishment and upkeep of homes and farms. Their days were filled with cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and even field work – not to mention the mythologized pie baking. The success of family farms and ventures depended on everyone’s physical labor, with no room for outsourcing domestic tasks. Frontier women quickly adapted to a life of manual labor, and their pioneer clothes needed to reflect this reality.
Calico Apron
While general dress styles from the rest of the country, featuring fitted bodices and full skirts, were still prevalent in pioneer clothes, practical modifications were necessary for frontier living. Skirts for everyday wear were hemmed approximately three inches shorter, facilitating movement for daily tasks. Weights were sometimes sewn into hems to prevent skirts from blowing up in the wind, a practical consideration in the often-exposed frontier environment.
Bodices remained fitted, but sleeves were loosened and extended to the wrists, paired with high collars to protect against the sun. These adjustments transformed fashionable styles into functional pioneer clothes.
Laundering pioneer clothes was a significant undertaking. Regardless of previous domestic help, frontier women were now responsible for this labor-intensive chore. The book How the West Was Worn mentions “wash dresses”—two-piece dresses of white cotton with printed backgrounds that became popular around 1867 for their easy care. Sold in stores and replicated by seamstresses, these “wash dresses” were worn across socioeconomic lines, demonstrating how pioneer clothes evolved to meet practical needs. This highlights the adaptive nature of fashion in response to the demands of frontier life.
Sunday Best: Pioneer Clothes for Church and Community
Pioneer couple in Sunday attire
While some families lived in isolation, settlements with multiple families often had churches, and regular attendance was a strong community norm. Although accounts exist of women in impoverished communities arriving barefoot, it was more common for women to have a designated “Sunday best” dress or two within their pioneer clothes collection. However, historical records often focus on more privileged settlers, making it difficult to ascertain the most typical experience.
“Sunday best” pioneer clothes closely resembled contemporary fashions in eastern cities. Full skirts, worn over petticoats and corsets, were standard. Sleeve styles, reflecting current trends, included bell, leg-o’-mutton, or pagoda sleeves. Skirt styles also followed fashion, with crinoline, hoop, or bustle styles appearing depending on the decade.
Color choices for Sunday best pioneer clothes followed conventions: younger and newly married women favored lighter colors, transitioning to darker shades within a few years. Dresses were paired with the most fashionable hats available, along with kid gloves and low-heeled boots, completing the ensemble of refined pioneer clothes for special occasions.
Social Gatherings: Pioneer Clothes for Roundups, Balls, and Parties
For those with the means, pioneer women also reserved dresses specifically for social events, in addition to daily and Sunday wear. Dances, holiday celebrations, picnics, and community gatherings provided occasions to socialize, and similar to eastern city customs, women dressed accordingly.
Pioneer woman in church dress
These social dresses were highly valued. Women might order fabrics from the general store, eagerly anticipating the chance to create fashionable outfits. Godey’s Ladies Book was a widely circulated magazine, influencing pioneer fashion as women enthusiastically copied dress patterns and styles from its pages. It served as a vital link to fashion trends for pioneer clothes.
Fabric availability for creating new dresses depended heavily on the proximity to towns and well-stocked general stores. In many cases, women didn’t have an extensive wardrobe, so their best dress served for special events, elevated with embellishments. Hand-crocheted collars, shawls, and other accessories were popular ways to enhance pioneer clothes for social occasions.
Accessories: The Finishing Touches to Pioneer Clothes
Pioneer girls with accessories
During my research, I discovered the significant role of accessories in pioneer wardrobes. Beyond hoop skirts and calico, the finishing touches were crucial in pioneer clothes! Jewelry and accessories were so emphasized in my research that I’ve compiled a list and plan a future post to delve into each item in detail, showcasing the variety and importance of accessories in pioneer clothes.
Pioneer women accessorized their outfits with:
- Aprons
- Boots
- Brooches
- Lockets
- Earrings
- Precious stones and metals
- Hair adornments
- Hats
- Collars and cuffs
- Gloves
- Undersleeves
- Parasols
- Fans
- Handbags
- Shawls
A Lasting Pioneer Legacy
My growing interest in my own pioneer ancestors has deepened my appreciation for this era. While researching this post on pioneer clothes, I noticed an abundance of “prairie style,” “pioneer,” and “western wear” clothing available commercially. However, finding detailed historical information about how pioneer women balanced propriety, beauty, and fashion amidst the physical demands of frontier life proved more challenging.
This topic is ripe for further exploration, and I invite you to stay tuned for my upcoming post focusing on accessories in frontier fashion: accessories in the frontier.
Create Your Own Pioneer Look:
Woman in pioneer dress
Browse our entire pioneer clothing collection
Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
Harper Victorian Pioneer Dress
Pioneer Blouse, Apron and Skirt
