For many with a penchant for historical fashion, the allure of Victorian gowns, with their intricate layers, vibrant colors, delicate ribbons, and overall elegance, is undeniable. However, for those rooted in the spirit of the American Southwest, like a Daughter of Utah Pioneers now residing in Denver, a different era of historical clothing comes to mind: pioneer clothing. This blend of interests naturally leads to an exploration of Pioneer Dresses and how the practical fashions of the Western frontier contrasted with the more elaborate styles of established Eastern cities during the same period.
Pioneer women approached their wardrobes with a pragmatic yet stylish mindset. Balancing convenience, class, and the demands of frontier life, their clothing choices reveal much about their daily lives and values. This article will delve into the essential aspects of pioneer dresses, laying the groundwork for a deeper understanding of frontier fashion.
Defining the Frontier and Pioneer Dress
For the scope of this discussion, “frontier” refers to the regions west of Missouri and Arkansas, spanning roughly from 1850 to 1890. The focus is on the clothing worn by women homesteaders and those in settlement communities, primarily white settlers migrating westward from the East.
It’s captivating to note that frontier clothing was less about social status and conspicuous consumption, and more about the shared experience and aspirations of families pursuing their dreams in the uncharted West. This commonality is beautifully reflected in the functional and adaptable nature of their garments, particularly pioneer dresses.
The Foundation: Undergarments
Surprisingly, the underclothes worn by women on the frontier were not drastically different from those in Eastern cities. The foundational garment was the chemise, a lightweight cotton slip. Its primary purpose was hygiene, as it was easily washable and protected outer garments from body oils and sweat. Next came pantalets, typically made of flannel or cotton. These served modesty purposes, functioning somewhat like early drawers since underwear as we know it was not yet common.
Contrary to assumptions that frontier life meant abandoning certain societal norms, most pioneer women included corsets in their wardrobes. The journey westward was often fueled by the desire for a better future, whether for economic reasons or religious freedom. These were women who considered themselves “proper” and held onto the standards of their time, including the corset, seen as a fundamental undergarment for maintaining respectable posture and silhouette.
While the rigors of daily frontier life might have led some women to loosen or temporarily forgo their corsets during strenuous tasks, most pioneer women brought corsets west and wore them whenever feasible.
Petticoats followed the corset. Many women owned several petticoats, varying in material and fullness, to adjust for formality, weather, or the desired shape of their dresses. Stockings were a constant when venturing outside or receiving guests. They were typically held up by garters or tucked into the tops of pantalets, a method that might seem less comfortable by modern standards, but was common practice.
Fabrics of the Frontier: Practicality and Availability
Calico was the ubiquitous fabric choice for pioneer dresses and clothing in general. Often envisioned as quaint floral prints, calico is actually a type of plain-woven cotton fabric, slightly heavier than muslin but lighter than canvas. Its attributes made it ideal for the frontier environment: lightweight, durable, and easy to clean. General stores offered calico in various dyed options, and women also dyed fabric themselves using commercially available dyes or natural pigments derived from plants like leaves, bark, berries, and fruits.
Cotton and silk fabrics were still valued for “Sunday best” and more formal “going out” dresses. Pioneer women often brought a few nicer outfits with them from the East.
Fabric availability depended heavily on proximity to general stores, which varied greatly across the frontier. In more remote areas, families might have limited access to store-bought fabrics and had to rely on homespun textiles, a skill and necessity that warrants a separate discussion.
Pioneer Dresses for Daily Life: Functionality Meets Fashion
Regardless of their backgrounds in the East, women in frontier settlements were essential contributors to establishing and maintaining homes and farms. Their days were filled with cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and often, fieldwork. The family’s success depended on everyone’s physical labor, and domestic tasks were not outsourced. Frontier women quickly adapted to a life of manual labor, and their daily wear pioneer dresses reflected this reality.
Pioneer Calico Apron
The general silhouette of dresses popular in the broader country – fitted bodices and full skirts – remained in pioneer fashion. However, practical modifications were crucial. For everyday pioneer dresses, skirts were hemmed approximately three inches shorter than fashionable lengths. This made movement easier for daily chores. Some dresses might also have had weights sewn into the hems to prevent skirts from blowing up in windy conditions and revealing too much leg.
While bodices remained fitted, sleeves were typically looser and extended to the wrists, paired with high collars to protect the skin from the sun.
Laundering pioneer dresses was a significant undertaking. Regardless of their prior experience with housework, frontier women were now responsible for the family’s laundry. An intriguing garment mentioned in Chris Enss’s book, How the West Was Worn, is the “wash dress.” This two-piece dress of white cotton with a printed background became popular around 1867 due to its easy care. Sold in stores and copied by seamstresses, the “wash dress” was practical for frequent laundering and worn by women across socioeconomic lines. While more research is needed to fully understand the “wash dress,” it illustrates how frontier fashion adapted to meet the demands of daily life.
Sunday Best: Pioneer Dresses for Church and Community
Even in sparsely populated areas, settlements often established churches, and attending services was an important community norm. While accounts exist of women in impoverished communities arriving barefoot to church, it was more common for women to have at least one or two pioneer dresses designated for Sundays. Historical records tend to focus on more privileged settlers, making it challenging to definitively know the most typical experience.
“Sunday best” pioneer dresses closely resembled fashionable dresses in Eastern cities. Full skirts, supported by petticoats and corsets, were standard. Sleeve styles mirrored current trends, such as bell, leg-o’-mutton, or pagoda sleeves. Skirt styles also followed fashion trends, with crinolines, hoops, or bustles being incorporated depending on the decade.
Color choices for Sunday pioneer dresses reflected age and marital status. Younger, newly married women favored lighter colors, transitioning to darker shades as they aged. These dresses were completed with the most fashionable hats available, along with kid gloves and low-heeled boots.
Social Pioneer Dresses: Roundups, Balls, and Gatherings
When resources allowed, frontier women also reserved dresses specifically for social occasions, in addition to daily and Sunday dresses. Dances, holiday celebrations, picnics, and other community gatherings provided opportunities to socialize, and as in Eastern cities, women dressed for these events.
Mary Chestnut’s Americana Victorian Cotton Dress
These social pioneer dresses were highly valued. Women might order fabrics from the general store and eagerly await the chance to create the latest styles. Godey’s Lady’s Book, a popular magazine, was widely circulated on the frontier. Women enthusiastically shared copies, using its pages for dress patterns and fashion inspiration.
Fabric availability for social dresses depended on the distance to towns and general stores. In many cases, women had a limited number of dresses, so the best dress they owned served for special events, enhanced with accessories to elevate the look. Hand-crocheted collars, shawls, and other accessories played a crucial role in adapting and embellishing their wardrobes.
Accessories: The Finishing Touches of Pioneer Dresses
An important aspect of frontier fashion is the significance of accessories. Beyond pioneer dresses themselves, accessories were essential for completing and personalizing an outfit. Jewelry and accessories were emphasized in descriptions of pioneer women’s attire, indicating their importance in frontier style.
Frontier women accessorized their pioneer dresses with:
- Aprons
- Boots
- Brooches
- Lockets
- Earrings
- Precious stones and metals (when available)
- Hair adornments
- Hats
- Collars and cuffs
- Gloves
- Undersleeves
- Parasols
- Fans
- Handbags
- Shawls
Legacy of Pioneer Dresses
Exploring the lives of pioneer ancestors reveals a fascinating intersection of practicality and aspiration. While “prairie style,” “pioneer,” and “western wear” clothing are readily available today, understanding the historical context of how pioneer women balanced propriety, beauty, and fashion within the demanding realities of frontier life provides a richer appreciation for their ingenuity and resilience.
This exploration of pioneer dresses is just the beginning. Future discussions will delve deeper into specific aspects of frontier fashion, such as accessories, to further illuminate the style and resourcefulness of women on the Western frontier.
Embody the Pioneer Look:
Woman in pioneer clothing standing in a field wearing a long-sleeved blue top and long blue skirt.
Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
Browse our entire pioneer clothing collection
Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
Harper Victorian Pioneer Dress
Pioneer Blouse, Apron and Skirt
