Nestled in the heart of Lahaina, Maui, the Pioneer Inn stands as a testament to time, boasting 120 years of history as the oldest hotel in Lahaina Harbor, just off Front Street. This historic landmark recently underwent an exciting transformation under the culinary direction of acclaimed chef Lee Anne Wong, previously known for her award-winning brunch spot Koko Head Café in O‘ahu and her participation in Bravo’s Top Chef. Wong’s vision has breathed new life into the inn’s dining experience, particularly at the Pioneer Inn Bar And Grill, now rebranded as Papa‘aina at the Pioneer Inn.
Lee Anne Wong David Croxford
Wong, in an interview, shared her initial attraction to the Pioneer Inn, emphasizing the captivating outdoor courtyard as a primary draw. Despite considering other locations on Maui, she consistently returned to the Pioneer Inn, drawn by the unique ambiance and potential of its underutilized courtyard space. This intuition proved to be the catalyst for a significant revitalization project.
The COVID-19 pandemic presented an unexpected opportunity for a complete conceptual overhaul. During the hotel shutdown in March 2020, Wong and her team reimagined the Pioneer Inn Bar and Grill, relaunching it as Papa‘aina at the Pioneer Inn. The name “Papa‘aina,” meaning “eating table” in Hawaiian, reflects the restaurant’s commitment to local flavors and communal dining. The revamp included not only a name change but also a refreshing of the dining space and the addition of a takeout, coffee, and bakery area. Wong aimed to modernize the space and culinary offerings while carefully preserving the historical essence of the iconic hotel and restaurant. The focus shifted to simple, fresh details that complement the rich history of the Pioneer Inn.
When comparing Maui’s culinary landscape to that of O‘ahu, Chef Wong notes key differences. O‘ahu, with a larger population of nearly a million, naturally offers a more diverse and voluminous food scene. Maui, with approximately 200,000 residents, presents a more intimate and evolving food culture. However, Wong highlights a strong and collaborative community (hui) of chefs on Maui, ranging from those in large hotel operations to independent eateries and food trucks. This collaborative spirit is driving a progressive culinary movement on the island, making Maui an increasingly exciting destination for food enthusiasts seeking unique and locally-sourced dining experiences, especially at places like Pioneer Inn Bar and Grill, now Papa‘aina, where history and modern culinary innovation meet.
This article is based on information originally published in the November 2020 issue of HONOLULU Magazine in a story titled “The Wong Way.” For a more in-depth look into Lee Anne Wong’s insights on supporting local agriculture, balancing motherhood with her restaurant career, and her personal guilty pleasures, you can find the full Q&A at hawaiimagazine.com.
