Capitol Reef National Park, a hidden gem in Utah’s stunning landscape, offers more than just breathtaking views. As you traverse the scenic drive and venture into Capitol Gorge, a unique historical record awaits – the Pioneer Register. About half a mile (0.8 km) from the Capitol Gorge trailhead, on the north side of the towering canyon walls, you’ll encounter a fascinating collection of names, dates, and places etched into the sandstone. This is the Pioneer Register, a testament to the early explorers, prospectors, settlers, and visitors who passed through this dramatic region.
These inscriptions are more than just simple graffiti; they are a tangible link to the past, a historical logbook carved directly into the rock. Imagine prospectors standing on their wagons, chiseling their names high above the reach of flash floods, hoping their mark would endure for centuries. Today, these markings offer invaluable insights into the individuals who shaped the early history of the Capitol Reef area.
The First Marks: Prospectors at the Pioneer Register
Among the earliest inscriptions at the Pioneer Register are those of J.A. Call and Wal. Bateman. These names, accompanied by the date September 20, 1871, and the word “PROSSPECTER,” speak volumes about the early motivations for venturing into this rugged terrain. Driven by the pursuit of mineral wealth, Call and Bateman were likely among the first Euro-Americans to explore the Capitol Reef region. Remarkably, beyond their names and profession etched in stone, little else is known about these pioneering figures. Their inscription at the Pioneer Register serves as a crucial piece of evidence, establishing their presence long before any officially documented expeditions. They predate even the well-known 1872 expedition led by Almon Thompson under the renowned J.W. Powell Expedition, highlighting the unsung stories embedded within the canyon walls.
A Community Chronicle: Local Names on the Pioneer Register
The Pioneer Register is not solely a record of transient explorers; it also serves as a chronicle of the local community. As you examine the inscriptions, you’ll discover the names of many early residents of Fruita and Wayne County. Families like the Pectols, Holts, and Hanks, along with members of the Oyler, Smith, Carrell, and Cook families, left their mark, weaving their personal histories into the fabric of the Pioneer Register. These names represent the families who built communities and established roots in this challenging environment, turning the Pioneer Register into a communal memory book etched in stone.
Notable Figures and Unexpected Visitors at the Register
Beyond local families, the Pioneer Register also bears witness to more notable individuals and unexpected visitors. C.A. Gibbons, a shop owner from Hanksville, is among them. Interestingly, Gibbons is credited with providing the inspiration for Zane Grey’s popular 1915 novel, Wildfire. This inscription adds a literary connection to the site, linking the rugged landscape of Capitol Reef to American Western literature. Adding another layer of intrigue, the names G. Guiraud, A. Pillaud, P. Brossard, and T. Breard, dated January 30, 1893, reveal the presence of a group of French archaeologists. Their visit, focused on exploring local ruins, demonstrates the early attraction of the Capitol Reef region for scholarly pursuits and international exploration.
The Surveyor’s Prank: A Humorous Tale from the Pioneer Register
As you continue your exploration and turn towards the south side of the canyon walls on your return, look higher up the cliff face. Here, you’ll find inscriptions left by surveyors, accompanied by a captivating story of a practical joke. Pam Stewart, a descendant of one of these surveyors, recounts the tale of her great-uncle, John R. Stewart, and his half-brother Quinby. In 1912, working as land surveyors for the state of Utah, they hired geology students from the University of Utah as summer crew members.
Quinby, known for his wit, devised a prank centered around the perceived speed of erosion in Capitol Reef. He casually remarked to the inexperienced students about the rapid erosion, even feigning a memory of carving their names “just last year.” Later that night, under the cover of darkness, the brothers returned to the canyon wall with ropes, hammers, and chisels. Quinby was lowered down the cliff face to inscribe their names and a fabricated date from the previous year in large, deliberate lettering.
The next day, Quinby pointed out the “year-old” inscriptions to the unsuspecting students, suggesting he had stood on a wagon bed to reach the rock face. This implied an astonishing 40 feet of erosion in a single year! The story leaves us to imagine the bewildered reactions of the geology students and the potential confusion they might have caused their professors with tales of accelerated erosion in the southern deserts. This humorous anecdote adds a layer of personality and human fallibility to the historical record of the Pioneer Register.
Protecting the Pioneer Register: Preserving History for the Future
The Pioneer Register stands as a unique and irreplaceable historical artifact. It offers a direct connection to the individuals who explored, settled, and shaped the Capitol Reef region. However, it is crucial to remember that adding to this register is now strictly prohibited. The Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979 (ARPA) unequivocally outlaws any form of vandalism to historical or archaeological sites, including the canyon walls of Capitol Reef. Violators face severe penalties, including substantial fines and imprisonment.
Therefore, as you explore Capitol Reef National Park, embrace the ethos of “leave no trace.” Create lasting memories, capture stunning photographs, but refrain from leaving any physical mark on this fragile landscape. Help us protect the Pioneer Register and the broader park for future generations to discover and appreciate.
If you witness any acts of vandalism within Capitol Reef National Park, please report it immediately to the National Park Service. Contact the Visitor Center, a park employee, or call the Capitol Reef tip line at (435) 425-4134.
Discover the Pioneer Register and Capitol Gorge further on the Fruita Map and Guide.
Explore more of Capitol Reef National Park here.
