Ernest Hemingway, the celebrated author, famously said that to understand a culture, one should spend time in its bars, not its churches or government buildings. True to his word, Hemingway explored numerous public houses globally, a tradition that continued in Sun Valley, Idaho, right up to his passing. Captivated by the stunning mountain vistas, tranquil streams, and potent drinks, he found his sanctuary, his “church,” in this picturesque valley. Among his cherished haunts in Ketchum, the Pioneer Saloon stands out as a particularly significant spot, deeply intertwined with Hemingway’s life in Sun Valley.
Hemingway’s connection to Sun Valley began in 1939, thanks to an invitation from W. Averell Harriman to be among the first celebrity guests at the newly established Sun Valley Lodge. He stayed in room 206 (now 228), and it was within these walls that he completed For Whom the Bell Tolls. Today, this room is a “Celebrity Suite,” a tribute to Hemingway, even featuring the typewriter he used for his iconic novel. The lodge’s Duchin Lounge also pays homage with the “Hemingway Special Daiquiri,” a nod to his frequent visits for writing breaks in the dimly lit, wood-paneled bar. However, beyond the lodge, Hemingway found a more rugged, local charm in places like the Pioneer Saloon in Ketchum.
The Pioneer Saloon Ketchum was a regular haunt for Hemingway, a place where he readily mingled with locals. Even now, renowned for its strong margaritas and the display of one of Hemingway’s hunting rifles, it’s easy to imagine the author feeling right at home there today. This is particularly true considering the saloon’s colorful past as an illegal gambling den in its early days, a detail that surely would have appealed to Hemingway’s adventurous spirit. The rustic atmosphere and unpretentious vibe of the Pioneer Saloon offered a contrast to the more refined settings of the Sun Valley Lodge, providing Hemingway with a different facet of the valley’s social life. It was a place where he could be just Ernest, among the Ketchum locals.
While the Pioneer Saloon offered a more casual environment, for fine dining, Hemingway favored The Christiana, now known as Michel’s Christiana. He frequented this establishment for elegant dinners with friends. It was at The Christiana that Hemingway enjoyed his final meal – a classic New York strip steak accompanied by potatoes, salad, and a glass of fine Bordeaux. This last supper reflects his appreciation for both the simple pleasures and the finer things in life, a balance that Sun Valley seemed to provide.
Sun Valley’s natural allure deeply resonated with Hemingway. He felt he could finally embody the adventurous, outdoor lifestyle of his fictional characters. Away from his writing desk, he spent afternoons in the Silver Creek preserve, often fishing with his eldest son in the rushing streams. This profound connection to the landscape led him to build a permanent home in Sun Valley in 1959, where he lived out his final years, immersed in the valley he loved.
Hemingway’s enduring bond with Sun Valley is solidified by his memorial, his ultimate “watering hole.” Nestled among trees by a murmuring creek along Trail Creek Road, a simple monument features a bust of Hemingway gazing out at the valley that captivated him. The epitaph poignantly states, “..the high blue skies, now he will be a part of them forever,” eternally linking the author to Sun Valley’s many attractions. From the Pioneer Saloon Ketchum to the serene memorial, Hemingway’s “parish” in Sun Valley continues to draw those who appreciate the outdoors, adventure, and a well-crafted cocktail, keeping his spirit alive in this mountain haven.
