Ernest Hemingway, a celebrated author known for his profound insights into culture, once famously said, “Don’t bother with churches, government buildings, or city squares, if you want to know about a culture, spend a night in its bars.” True to his word, Hemingway explored the essence of various cultures through their public houses, a tradition he enthusiastically continued in Sun Valley, Idaho. Among the mountain vistas and serene streams he adored, it was in the local saloons that this legendary writer and outdoorsman truly found his sanctuary. And among these, the Pioneer Saloon in Ketchum, Idaho, stood out as a particular favorite.
Hemingway’s connection with Sun Valley began in 1939, invited by W. Averell Harriman to experience the newly established Sun Valley Lodge. He quickly fell in love with the area, staying in room 206 (now 228) where he completed For Whom the Bell Tolls. This room is now a memorialized “Celebrity Suite,” featuring his original typewriter. Even the Duchin Lounge at the lodge commemorates him with the “Hemingway Special Daiquiri,” a nod to his frequent visits for writing breaks. However, beyond the lodge, it was establishments like the Pioneer Saloon where Hemingway truly immersed himself in the local Ketchum culture.
The Pioneer Saloon in Ketchum holds a special place in Hemingway’s Sun Valley story. He was a regular, often found amongst locals, sharing stories and soaking in the atmosphere. Today, the Pioneer Saloon is renowned for its margaritas and proudly displays one of Hemingway’s hunting rifles, a testament to his adventurous spirit and local ties. One can easily imagine Hemingway feeling right at home in the Pioneer Saloon even today, especially considering its colorful past as a reputed illegal gambling den in its early years. This rugged, authentic atmosphere was undoubtedly part of the saloon’s charm for a man like Hemingway.
While the Pioneer Saloon offered a casual and spirited setting, Hemingway also appreciated fine dining in Ketchum. The Christiana, now known as Michel’s Christiana, was his preferred spot for more upscale meals. He often dined there with friends, and it was at The Christiana that Hemingway had his last meal – a classic New York strip steak accompanied by potatoes, salad, and a fine Bordeaux.
Sun Valley’s natural beauty captivated Hemingway, allowing him to live the adventurous life he often depicted in his novels. He relished hiking, hunting, and connecting with the locals who understood the rugged landscape. Silver Creek preserve became a favorite escape for afternoons of fishing, sometimes shared with his eldest son. This deep connection to Sun Valley led him to build a permanent home in 1959, where he spent his final years immersed in the valley’s charm.
Hemingway’s enduring bond with Sun Valley is further cemented by his memorial located along Trail Creek Road. A simple bust of the author gazes out over the valley he so loved, forever a part of the landscape that inspired him. The epitaph at the shrine reads, “..the high blue skies, now he will be a part of them forever,” encapsulating his eternal connection to Sun Valley. Hemingway’s Sun Valley, with places like the Pioneer Saloon in Ketchum, remains a cherished destination for those who appreciate the outdoors, adventure, and a good cocktail in a place steeped in literary history.
