Pioneer Seafoods, a well-known name for fresh, locally-sourced fish in the Redwood City area, has recently had to navigate a significant change. The Pioneer, their 76-foot fishing trawler, has been forced to leave its long-time dock in Redwood City and relocate to Richmond. This move comes after the Port of Redwood City terminated Pioneer Seafoods’ permit, putting the future of owner Giuseppe Pennisi’s direct-to-customer fish sales model in question.
According to Kristine Zortman, the Executive Director of the Port of Redwood City, a new commercial fishing operation is set to take Pioneer Seafoods’ place in the coming weeks. While Pioneer Seafoods’ boat is no longer a permanent fixture, seafood lovers can still find The Blue Fish Kitchen food truck at the port. It’s recommended to check their Yelp page for the most up-to-date operating hours.
The Port of Redwood City stated that Pioneer Seafoods was operating under a pilot program with a month-to-month permit. Zortman explained that the permit was terminated because “Pioneer Seafoods has not sold fish since February 2022 and was no longer providing a public benefit.” She added that the port had not received a clear explanation for the halt in sales. However, Pioneer Seafoods isn’t entirely barred from the port; they can still operate as a “transient vessel” if they provide 48-hour notice and meet all necessary regulatory requirements.
Giuseppe Pennisi, the owner of Pioneer Seafoods, clarifies that the reason for the pause in fishing operations was due to a debilitating hernia injury. In a conversation with the Peninsula Foodist, Pennisi stated, “I was just told, basically, if you don’t get fishing, you’re going to get kicked out of here.” He was reportedly given a three-week notice to vacate the premises with his ship and equipment. Currently, The Pioneer is docked at Sugar Dock in Richmond, a location where direct fish sales are not permitted.
The Pioneer Seafood fishing trawler, previously docked at Redwood City, is central to their local seafood business.
Pennisi emphasizes his hands-on role in Pioneer Seafoods. He’s not just the captain but an active crew member involved in every aspect of the operation, from handling heavy boxes of fish to managing equipment on deck. “I do the worst and hardest stuff all the time,” he says, highlighting the physical demands of the work, particularly while managing a health issue.
Even before his injury, running Pioneer Seafoods was a demanding undertaking. Since launching direct sales to customers in the Midpeninsula and operating The Blue Fish Kitchen food truck in August 2020, Pennisi aimed for approximately three fishing trips each month, each lasting four to five days. Factoring in unpredictable weather, fluctuating fuel costs, and stringent regulations, including the expense of carrying a federal observer onboard, profit margins were tight, and the work was physically challenging and often hazardous. “I don’t think a lot of people realized how stressful that was,” Pennisi admits.
Pennisi reflects on the decline of the Bay Area’s commercial fishing industry throughout his life. Where once there were over 50 fishing boats, Pioneer Seafoods is now one of the few remaining. “My whole life I’ve been pushed from one harbor to the next,” he recounts.
Following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, Pennisi began his fishing career in Monterey as a third-generation fisherman. He then moved his business to Moss Landing, and subsequently to San Francisco, where securing fishing permits took him five years. “The sad thing is, there’s nobody else,” he laments, concerned about the future of this traditional trade. “It’s not like I can pass this knowledge on to anyone.”
During their time at the Port of Redwood City, Pioneer Seafoods typically fished in the waters between Monterey Bay and the Farallon Islands, venturing 20 to 40 miles offshore to catch species like rockfish, sole, and sablefish. “I’m just working my way up the coast, trying to find a home,” Pennisi explains. “I really liked Redwood City, but it’s really hard to try to bring something back to life all the time.”
In Redwood City, Pennisi invested significantly to ensure the viability of his business. He installed walk-in freezers for his boat, contributed to piling costs, and even arranged for live music to attract more visitors to the port area. “That port was dead for 35 years,” he states. “I didn’t understand the urgency to get rid of me.”
A core mission for Pioneer Seafoods is to provide consumers with access to more sustainable and environmentally responsible seafood choices. By offering locally-caught fish, they minimize transportation emissions, addressing the fact that only a small fraction of seafood consumed in the U.S. is actually caught domestically. Furthermore, they employ fishing methods designed to minimize bycatch, the unintentional capture of non-target species. Pioneer Seafoods has modified its trawling gear to significantly reduce bycatch, as detailed on their website.
“It’s not fair to the public that they can’t have fresh local fish from their own backyard,” Pennisi asserts, emphasizing the importance of local seafood access for communities.
Since announcing the departure from the Port of Redwood City on Facebook, Pioneer Seafoods has received an outpouring of community support. Many have expressed their sadness and surprise at the news, highlighting the local impact of Pioneer Seafoods.
Currently exploring options for a new location to sell his fish, Pennisi, at 58, is weary of constant relocation. He has been dedicating more time to Pioneer Engineering & Construction, his sons’ company in Chico, while facing mounting financial pressures. “I’ve been looking at the last 20 years of my life, and I can’t say that it was worth it,” he reflects somberly. “I don’t know how this story’s going to end.”
This report includes contributions from Redwood City Pulse reporter Leah Worthington.
Pioneer Seafoods, Phone: 831-917-9407, Instagram: @pioneerseafoods.
