Pioneer Square, often hailed as Seattle’s birthplace and original downtown, boasts a rich tapestry of history dating back to 1852. The area’s compelling narrative is etched into its brick sidewalks and Victorian architecture, largely constructed in the aftermath of the Great Fire of 1889. While Pioneer Square experienced periods of decline, particularly during World War I when it became known as “Skid Road,” dedicated preservation efforts in the 1960s revitalized this architectural gem, saving it from urban renewal. Officially designated as a Historic District in 1969, Pioneer Square’s core is nestled between Cherry Street to the north, 2nd Avenue to the east, Alaskan Way to the west, and S. King Street to the south. This vibrant neighborhood, especially Pioneer Square North bordering Cherry Street, offers a captivating glimpse into Seattle’s formative years.
Indigenous Roots and Early Exploration of Pioneer Square North
Long before European settlers arrived, the land encompassing Pioneer Square North and the surrounding areas was home to the Suquamish and Duwamish peoples. They established at least seventeen villages in the vicinity, recognizing the area’s strategic location. They named it Zechalalitch, meaning “the place to pass over,” highlighting its importance as a convenient passage between the Duwamish River estuary and Lake Washington to the east. This natural thoroughfare made Pioneer Square North a vital crossroads for indigenous communities for centuries.
The broader region first came to the attention of European explorers in 1792 when British Captain George Vancouver sailed past, though he didn’t chart the Elliott Bay coastline directly. Formal surveying of the area, including Pioneer Square North, waited until 1841 with the arrival of a U.S. Navy expedition led by Commander Charles Wilkes. Wilkes named Elliott Bay after a member of his crew and documented the landscape as steep, wooded slopes descending to a level peninsula, Piner’s Point, almost encircled by shallow tide flats. These early descriptions provide a glimpse into the pristine environment that would soon transform into the bustling Pioneer Square North.
Settlement and the Naming of Seattle near Pioneer Square North
King County’s first permanent white settlers arrived in September 1851, laying claim to the fertile lands of the Duwamish delta and shores. Shortly after, scouts from a group of settlers in Portland arrived and staked a claim at Alki Beach in West Seattle. By November 13, 1851, a group of 24 men, women, and children, led by Arthur A. Denny (1822-1903), had gathered at Alki. They were soon joined by David S. “Doc” Maynard, a physician and merchant, who was encouraged by Chief Seattle to move north.
While Charles Terry (1830-1867) established a “New York” store at Alki, aiming to trade timber with San Francisco, the Denny Party recognized the limitations of the Alki site. After exploring Elliott Bay, Arthur Denny, Carson Boren (1824-1912), and William Bell (1817-1887) determined it was a superior harbor for a future city. On February 14, 1852, they filed claims on the narrow beach and ridges along Elliott Bay, including areas that would become part of Pioneer Square North. Maynard claimed Piner’s Point and the mudflats to the south and east.
Carson Boren’s sister, Louisa (1827-1918), is credited with initiating the construction of the first cabin in the nascent town in spring 1852, located at 2nd Avenue and Cherry Street, placing it within Pioneer Square North. Doc Maynard constructed a second cabin at S Main Street and 1st Avenue S, establishing “The Seattle Exchange” general store. Maynard also persuaded his fellow settlers to rename their settlement, initially called Duwamps, in honor of Chief Seattle. Leveraging his political connections, Maynard successfully lobbied the Oregon Territorial Legislature to designate Seattle as the seat of the new King County in December 1852, solidifying the importance of the emerging settlement near Pioneer Square North.
Yesler’s Mill and Early Seattle’s Growth around Pioneer Square North
Seattle’s early prosperity was secured in 1852 when Henry Yesler (1810-1892) chose the fledgling village as the location for Puget Sound’s first steam-powered lumber mill. In return for land from the settlers’ claims, Yesler built his mill on a pier at the foot of what is now Yesler Way, initially named Mill Street and later nicknamed “Skid Road.” Henry and Sarah Yesler established their first residence at 2nd Avenue and James Street, and Yesler ingeniously created an aqueduct system of elevated log troughs to transport water from hilltop springs to the expanding village below, benefiting areas like Pioneer Square North.
The mill’s cookhouse and the later Yesler’s Pavilion at 1st Avenue and Cherry Street became central social hubs for early Seattle, effectively making Pioneer Square North a vital community center. Captain Felker’s establishment – a hotel, restaurant, and bordello near 1st Avenue and Jackson Street – also served as a popular gathering spot, managed by the colorful Mary Conklin, famously known as “Mother (later Madame) Damnable.” These establishments around Pioneer Square North contributed significantly to the social fabric of early Seattle.
The Gridlock and Early Town Planning in Pioneer Square North
In the spring of 1853, Arthur Denny, Carson Boren, and Doc Maynard drafted plats for their land claims, which converged along Yesler Way. Denny and Boren favored streets that followed the natural contours of their hilly terrain. However, Maynard, whose claim was largely flat, insisted on a strict north-south and east-west street grid. This disagreement, particularly impacting the street layout of Pioneer Square North, stemmed from Maynard’s strong will and perhaps, as Denny later suggested, the influence of alcohol.
Denny later complained that Maynard, “stimulated with liquor,” acted as if he was “not only monarch of all he surveyed, but of what Boren and I surveyed, too.” Consequently, conflicting plats for “The Town of Seattle” were filed on May 23, 1853. This early dispute resulted in the tangled intersections still visible along Yesler Way today, a quirky reminder of the foundational disagreements in planning Pioneer Square North and the surrounding areas.
Conflicts, Commerce, and Community in Early Pioneer Square North
By late 1855, Seattle’s population had grown to approximately 300 residents. However, tensions arose as some local Indigenous peoples resisted relocation due to new treaties with the U.S. Government. On January 26, 1856, a significant attack on Seattle forced settlers to seek refuge in blockhouses and a stockade. A day-long battle ensued, resulting in the deaths of two settlers and an unknown number of Indigenous raiders. Marines and cannon fire from the U.S.S. Decatur, anchored in Elliott Bay, eventually repelled the attack, securing the early settlement that included Pioneer Square North.
The attack deeply discouraged Doc Maynard, leading him to exchange his Pioneer Square claim for Charles Terry’s New York Alki tract. This land swap proved to be historically imprudent as Seattle soon flourished while Alki stagnated. Maynard eventually returned, and his wife Catherine became a prominent civic leader, further contributing to the development of Pioneer Square North and Seattle.
The early Seattle economy, including Pioneer Square North, was largely driven by San Francisco’s demand for timber, milled lumber, salted salmon, and later, abundant soft coal from the region. The numerous ships depositing ballast around Yesler’s Wharf gradually created an artificial island near the foot of S Washington Street, expanding the usable land around Pioneer Square North.
Seattle’s growth accelerated in the 1870s with the construction of its first railroads and coal mines in south King County. Much of the city’s initial infrastructure was built by Chinese workers, who formed a vibrant Chinatown centered around 2nd Avenue S and S Washington Street. Initially welcomed for their labor, these immigrants became targets of racial resentment during the economic downturn of the mid-1880s. In February 1886, approximately 300 Chinese individuals were forcibly expelled from Seattle during labor riots, a dark chapter in the history of Pioneer Square North and Seattle.
Rebirth from Ashes: Pioneer Square North After the Great Fire
Despite social unrest, Seattle had become the largest city in the state by the late 1880s, with a population of 40,000. Then, on June 6, 1889, a devastating fire erupted in a cabinet shop near 1st Avenue and Madison Street. An overheated glue pot ignited a blaze that rapidly consumed 29 downtown blocks, including much of Pioneer Square North, within hours.
The city, demonstrating remarkable resilience, swiftly began rebuilding with brick and stone. Many of these rebuilt structures still stand in Pioneer Square today, showcasing the area’s architectural heritage. Architects like Elmer Fisher (1840-1905) seized the opportunity to design an impressive collection of new office buildings in the Victorian and Edwardian styles. City engineers also used the rebuilding phase to address persistent drainage issues in Pioneer Square North by raising the street level by a full story. This elevation inadvertently created subterranean spaces from the original ground floors, which were eventually sealed and forgotten until their rediscovery in the early 1960s.
Klondike Gold and Pioneer Square North’s Golden Era
Seattle faced another challenge in 1893 when a national economic “panic” triggered a four-year depression. However, fortune smiled upon the city again on July 17, 1897, when the steamship Portland arrived at Waterfront Park carrying “more than a ton of gold” and 68 prospectors enriched by the Klondike River gold rush. Seattle’s business leaders and boosters quickly promoted the city as the “Gateway to Alaska.” Thousands of hopeful “sourdoughs” passed through Seattle, boosting the local economy, particularly in areas like Pioneer Square North, even if their own fortunes remained elusive.
The Klondike gold and the influx of prospectors’ wealth fueled a surge in Seattle’s population and industry. Civic leaders transformed the small triangular area at the intersection of 1st Avenue and Yesler Way into a park, naming it Pioneer Place. In 1899, a group of businessmen controversially acquired and installed a Tlingit totem pole in the park (a replica now stands in its place). A decade later, the city added underground “comfort stations” and an ornate Pergola to serve tourists and transit users during the 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition, further enhancing Pioneer Square North as a destination.
Zenith and Decline of Pioneer Square North
The early 20th century saw advancements in construction technology, with steel-frame construction enabling taller buildings. Structures like the Alaska Building (1903-1904), Frye Hotel (1906-1911), and Hoge Building (completed in 1911) reached unprecedented heights. The Smith Tower, completed in 1914 and named after typewriter magnate L. C. Smith, became the tallest building west of the Mississippi until 1962, symbolizing Seattle’s booming ambitions and skyline.
However, by the time the Smith Tower opened, Pioneer Square’s dominance as Seattle’s economic center was waning. Extensive street regrading projects and the expansion of electric streetcar and cable railway systems opened up new areas for development beyond Pioneer Square North. Downtown Seattle began its northward expansion along 2nd and 3rd avenues, shifting the city’s commercial gravity.
Simultaneously, social reformers and prohibitionists gained influence, targeting Pioneer Square as a symbol of the city’s tolerance of saloons, brothels, and gambling south of Yesler Way. Figures like First Presbyterian Church pastor Mark Matthews condemned “Skid Road” as a path to vice and ruin. The Great Depression exacerbated Pioneer Square’s decline. Its once-grand hotels became flophouses, and pawnshops replaced elegant storefronts. “Hooverville,” a large shantytown, emerged south of Pioneer Square, housing hundreds of unemployed men, reflecting the area’s descent into hardship.
Pioneer Square North’s Second Rebirth and Preservation
A major earthquake in 1949 further damaged Pioneer Square’s aging buildings. By the early 1960s, urban renewal plans threatened the area, with proposals to replace historic structures with parking garages. The 1962 demolition of the historic Hotel Seattle and its replacement with a parking garage galvanized Seattle’s nascent historic preservation movement.
Architect Ralph Anderson (d. 2010) and art gallery owner Richard White played key roles in rediscovering Pioneer Square’s architectural value. Journalist and historian Bill Speidel generated public interest in 1964 by launching “underground tours” of Pioneer Square’s forgotten sidewalk areaways, revealing the hidden history beneath Pioneer Square North and the surrounding district.
The election of reform-minded city officials like Mayor Wes Uhlman and Council members John Miller and Phyllis Lamphere provided crucial political support for preservation. In 1969, a 30-acre Pioneer Square Historic District was established, protecting the area’s unique architectural legacy, including Pioneer Square North.
Pioneer Square North Today: Wealth, Poverty, and Enduring History
Pioneer Square became a magnet for Seattle’s growing population of young urban professionals. Entrepreneurs transformed dilapidated buildings into trendy taverns, music venues, offices, and loft apartments. While redevelopment revitalized the area, it also put pressure on long-term, low-income residents. Stricter fire codes following the 1970 Ozark Hotel fire led to the closure of many single-room-occupancy hotels, contributing to displacement.
Private developers largely funded Pioneer Square’s revitalization. Sam Israel (1899-1994), a significant property owner, notably resisted gentrification, helping to preserve the Square’s distinctive character. The Samis Foundation, established after his death, has since adopted a more proactive approach to property management.
Public improvements included the addition of a 1st Avenue planter strip and Occidental Park in the early 1970s. The Annie E. Casey Foundation funded the restoration of Pioneer Place park and the Pergola in 1973. Waterfront Streetcar service began in 1982, extending through Pioneer Square North to the International District by 1990. The Pioneer Square Station for Metro Transit’s downtown tunnel opened in the same year, enhancing accessibility.
From Stadiums to Resilience in Pioneer Square North
The construction of the Kingdome south of King Street S in 1976 was a major, though debated, development. Anticipation of its impacts led to an expanded Special Review area, but the Kingdome’s presence often overwhelmed Pioneer Square North with sports crowds, impacting retail businesses and residents. The Kingdome was demolished in 2000, and the newer Safeco Field and Seahawk’s Stadium now serve similar functions, potentially offering a more balanced integration with Pioneer Square.
Pioneer Square faced a series of challenges in early 2001. A truck accident toppled the beloved Pergola on January 15 (it was restored in 2002). In late February, violent incidents during “Fat Tuesday” festivities resulted in injuries and a fatality. Shortly after, a significant earthquake on February 28, 2001, shook the district, damaging some buildings. Fortunately, prior seismic retrofitting minimized damage to most structures in Pioneer Square North and the surrounding area.
As its history illustrates, Pioneer Square, including Pioneer Square North, has weathered numerous adversities, from accidents and riots to earthquakes and economic shifts. It stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Seattle, a cradle of the city’s origins, and a vibrant historic district that continues to evolve while preserving its rich past.
Sources:
Clarence B. Bagley, History of Seattle Vol. 1 (Chicago: S. J. Clarke Publishing Co., 1916); Edmond. S. Meany, History of the State of Washington (New York: MacMillan, 1909); Gordon Newell, Westward to Alki (Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1977); Roberta Frye Watt, Four Wagons West (Portland, OR: Binfords & Mort, 1931); Murray Morgan, Skid Road (New York: Viking, 1951); Walt Crowley, National Trust Guide: Seattle (New York: Wiley & Sons/Preservation Press, 1998). Note: This essay was updated in May 2004.
Related Topics
Audio/Video Pioneers Seattle Neighborhoods
