Delving into the romanticized era of Victorian gowns often leads to a fascination with the elegance and intricate layers of bygone fashion. For those of us with roots in the American Southwest, like myself, an Arizona native and Daughter of Utah Pioneers now in Denver, this fascination extends to the practical yet compelling clothing of pioneer women. This blend of interests sparked a curiosity about pioneer clothing and how the styles of the Western frontier contrasted with those in established Eastern cities during the same period.
Pioneer women’s wardrobes were a careful balance of necessity, practicality, and personal expression. From the demands of daily life to aspirations of refinement, several factors shaped their clothing choices. This article uncovers the essentials of their attire and lays the groundwork for a deeper exploration of pioneer fashion.
Defining the Frontier Context
For the purpose of this discussion, “frontier” refers to the regions west of Missouri and Arkansas, roughly spanning the years 1850-1890. The clothing styles described here primarily represent female homesteaders and inhabitants of settlement communities, largely focusing on white settlers migrating westward from the East.
What’s particularly captivating about pioneer clothing is its departure from strict status symbols prevalent in Eastern fashion. Instead, clothing on the frontier reflected a shared identity among families pursuing dreams and venturing into the uncharted territories of the American West. It was less about outward display and more about the collective experience of pioneering life.
Essential Undergarments
Surprisingly, the foundational undergarments worn by women on the frontier were quite similar to those in Eastern cities. The chemise, a light, frequently laundered cotton slip, was the base layer, prioritizing hygiene. Over this, pantalets made of flannel or cotton were added for modesty – serving a function akin to early underwear.
Contrary to assumptions of stark practicality, corsets were a common element of pioneer women’s attire. Many women journeying west were driven by hopes for a better future, be it economic or religious. They were “proper” women who upheld societal norms, and the corset was considered a fundamental garment at the time.
While the constraints of rigorous daily tasks might have led some women to loosen or forgo corsets during housework, most pioneer women brought corsets with them and wore them whenever feasible, underscoring their commitment to maintaining a sense of decorum amidst frontier life.
Following the corset, petticoats were layered on. Pioneer women often possessed multiple petticoats of varying formality and weight, adaptable to different occasions and weather conditions. Stockings were essential for venturing outside or receiving guests, typically secured with garters or tucked into pantalets—a detail that, admittedly, sounds rather uncomfortable by modern standards.
Fabrics of the Frontier
Calico emerged as the quintessential fabric for pioneer clothing. Often envisioned as quaint floral prints, calico is actually a plain-woven fabric made from unprocessed cotton, slightly lighter than contemporary canvas. Its qualities—lightweight, durable, and easy to clean—made it ideal for the demands of outdoor frontier life. While general stores offered calico in dyed options, women also dyed fabric themselves using commercially available dyes or natural pigments derived from plants like leaves, bark, berries, and fruits.
Pioneer woman in daily wear
Cotton and silk fabrics were still reserved for “Sunday best” attire and more formal dresses. Pioneer women often brought finer garments with them from the East, preserving them for special occasions.
While fabric availability depended on the proximity and accessibility of general stores, which varied greatly across the frontier, these stores became vital sources. For families with limited access to purchased fabrics, homespun alternatives were crafted, a fascinating topic deserving of its own exploration.
Daily Wear: Practicality Meets Style
Despite diverse backgrounds, women in frontier settlements shared the necessity of participating in household and farm labor. Cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and even field work filled their days. The success of frontier families relied on the physical contributions of each member, with no option to outsource domestic duties. Pioneer women quickly adapted to a life of demanding physical labor.
Pioneer Calico Apron for daily tasks
While general dress styles of the era—fitted bodices and full skirts—remained fashionable on the frontier, practical modifications were essential. For everyday dresses, skirts were hemmed approximately three inches shorter, facilitating movement for daily tasks. Weights sewn into hems may have been added to prevent skirts from blowing up in windy conditions, maintaining modesty.
Bodices remained fitted, but sleeves were loosened and extended to the wrists, paired with high collars to shield against the sun’s harsh rays.
Laundering pioneer clothing was a significant undertaking. An intriguing reference to “wash dresses” appears in Chris Enss’s book, How the West Was Worn. These “wash dresses,” popular by 1867, were two-piece white cotton dresses with printed backgrounds, valued for their easy care. Sold in stores and replicated by seamstresses, they were worn across socioeconomic lines. While more research on “wash dresses” is needed, their existence suggests rapid adaptation in fashion to meet the practical needs of frontier living.
Sunday Best: Maintaining Tradition
Pioneer couple in Sunday attire
Even in sparsely populated settlements, churches often formed the heart of communities. Church attendance was generally expected. While accounts exist of women in impoverished communities attending church barefoot, it was more common for women to possess a dress or two specifically for Sundays. Historical records often lean towards documenting more privileged settlers, making it challenging to definitively ascertain the most prevalent reality.
Frontier “Sunday best” mirrored contemporary fashions in Eastern cities. Full skirts, worn over petticoats and corsets, were standard. Sleeve styles reflected current trends, including bell, leg-o-mutton, or pagoda sleeves. Skirt styles also evolved with fashion, incorporating crinoline, hoop, or bustle silhouettes depending on the decade.
Color choices for Sunday dresses followed conventions. Younger and newly married women favored lighter shades, transitioning to darker colors within a few years of marriage. Outfits were completed with the most fashionable hats available, kid gloves, and low-heeled boots.
Social Occasions: Dressing for Community
Beyond daily and Sunday attire, women with means often reserved dresses specifically for social gatherings. Dances, holiday celebrations, picnics, and other community events were integral to frontier life, and dressing for these occasions was a familiar practice carried from Eastern society.
Pioneer woman in church dress
These social dresses were highly valued. Women might order fabrics from general stores and eagerly await opportunities to create and showcase fashionable ensembles. Godey’s Ladies Book, a popular magazine, heavily influenced frontier fashion. It was widely circulated, with women enthusiastically copying dress patterns and styles featured in its pages.
Fabric availability for new dresses depended on the proximity to towns and well-stocked general stores. In less fortunate circumstances, women might have a limited wardrobe, using their finest dress for special events and enhancing it with embellishments. Hand-crocheted collars, shawls, and other accessories became crucial for elevating outfits.
Accessories: The Finishing Touches
Pioneer girls with accessories
Accessories played a significant role in pioneer women’s wardrobes. Beyond the foundational garments, these finishing touches were highly valued. Jewelry and accessories were emphasized in historical accounts, highlighting their importance in frontier fashion.
Pioneer women commonly accessorized with:
- Aprons
- Boots
- Brooches
- Lockets
- Earrings
- Precious stones and metals
- Hair adornments
- Hats
- Collars and cuffs
- Gloves
- Undersleeves
- Parasols
- Fans
- Handbags
- Shawls
A Lasting Pioneer Legacy
Exploring pioneer ancestry reveals the resilience and resourcefulness of these women. While “prairie style,” “pioneer,” and “western wear” clothing are readily available today, understanding the historical context—how pioneer women balanced propriety, beauty, and fashion within the demands of frontier life—offers a richer appreciation.
This exploration of Pioneer Woman Apparel is just the beginning. Future discussions will delve deeper into specific aspects, such as accessories and the enduring influence of pioneer fashion.
Embodying the Pioneer Look
Woman in pioneer clothing
Browse our entire pioneer clothing collection
Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
Harper Victorian Pioneer Dress
Pioneer Blouse, Apron and Skirt
