Like many fascinated by history, I often find myself drawn to the elegance of Victorian gowns, imagining the layers of fabric, rich colors, and delicate ribbons. As a woman with roots in the Southwest – an Arizona native and Daughter of Utah Pioneers now residing in Denver – this fascination has led me to consider the practicalities of pioneer clothing. How did the fashions of the Western frontier differ from those of established Eastern cities?
Pioneer women faced unique challenges when it came to their wardrobes. Balancing practicality, social expectations, and available resources was key. This exploration delves into the essential Pioneer Woman Material choices, uncovering the fabrics and considerations that shaped their clothing. Join me as we explore the foundations of frontier fashion.
Defining the Frontier for Fashion
For our exploration, we’ll focus on the clothing worn by women west of Missouri and Arkansas, roughly between 1850 and 1890. The wardrobes we’re examining are primarily those of homesteaders and women within settlement communities, largely focusing on white settlers journeying westward.
What’s compelling about this era is that clothing choices were less dictated by status and purchasing power, and more by the shared experience of pursuing dreams and exploring the unknown. This commonality forged a unique approach to dress, prioritizing function and durability while still striving for a sense of propriety and style.
The Foundation: Underclothing Materials
Interestingly, the undergarments worn by women on the frontier weren’t drastically different from those in Eastern cities. The cornerstone was the chemise, a light, frequently laundered slip made of cotton, crucial for hygiene. Next came pantalets, crafted from flannel or cotton, serving purposes of modesty – as underwear as we know it was not yet common.
Contrary to assumptions about frontier practicality leading to the abandonment of certain garments, corsets were largely retained. Many women venturing west were driven by aspirations for a better future, whether economic or religious. They were “proper” women who upheld societal norms, and corsets were considered fundamental to maintaining that image.
While the demands of frontier life might lead some to loosen or forgo corsets during strenuous tasks, most pioneer women brought corsets and wore them whenever feasible.
Following the corset came petticoats, often multiple layers depending on formality and weather. Stockings were essential when leaving the house or receiving guests, typically held up by garters or tucked into pantalets – a detail that perhaps sounds less comfortable to modern sensibilities.
Pioneer Woman Material: The Fabrics of Choice
Across the frontier, calico emerged as the quintessential pioneer woman material. While today we might associate calico with quaint floral prints, it’s actually a type of fabric made from unprocessed cotton. Simply woven and slightly lighter than canvas, calico was ideal for the rigors of outdoor life. Its lightness, sturdiness, and ease of cleaning made it incredibly practical. General stores offered calico in various dyed options, and women also dyed it themselves using store-bought dyes or natural pigments derived from leaves, bark, berries, and fruits.
Cotton and silk fabrics remained relevant for “Sunday best” attire and more formal dresses. Many women brought such garments from the East, intending to maintain a degree of refinement in their wardrobe.
Fabrics were available at general stores, though access varied greatly depending on location. For families with limited access, homespun fabrics were common, though that’s a topic deserving of its own dedicated exploration.
Daily Wear: Material Adaptations for Frontier Life
Regardless of their backgrounds, women in frontier settlements were integral to establishing and maintaining homes and farms. Cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and even field work filled their days. The success of family endeavors relied on everyone’s physical contributions, with no outsourcing of domestic labor. Frontier women quickly adapted to a life of manual work.
Pioneer Calico Apron
General dress styles prevalent in the rest of the country, featuring fitted bodices and full skirts, were adopted by pioneer women. However, practical adjustments were crucial. Daily dress skirts were hemmed about three inches shorter to facilitate movement. Weights sewn into hems were also a possibility, preventing skirts from blowing up in windy conditions.
Bodices remained fitted, but sleeves were loosened and extended to the wrists, paired with high collars for sun protection. These modifications reflect the understanding of pioneer woman material needs for sun and movement.
Laundering pioneer clothing was a significant undertaking. Chris Enss’s book, How the West Was Worn, mentions “wash dresses” – a popular two-piece dress of white cotton with a printed background from 1867. Its easy care made it desirable across socioeconomic levels. While more research is needed, the “wash dress” exemplifies how fashion adapted to the practical demands of frontier living.
Sunday Best: Materials for Refinement
Even in sparsely populated settlements, churches were central to community life, and church attendance was generally expected. While accounts exist of women in impoverished communities attending barefoot, it was more common for women to have designated “Sunday best” dresses. Documentation tends to favor more privileged settlers, making it harder to definitively ascertain the most typical experience.
“Sunday best” attire on the frontier mirrored city fashions. Full skirts over petticoats and corsets were standard. Sleeve styles followed current trends, including bell, leg-o-mutton, or pagoda sleeves. Skirts also reflected evolving styles, transitioning through crinoline, hoop, and bustle eras.
Lighter colors were favored by younger and newly married women, transitioning to darker shades later in life. Sunday ensembles were completed with the most fashionable hats available, kid gloves, and low-heeled boots, showcasing a desire for refinement even with pioneer woman material limitations.
Social Gatherings: Dressing Up with Available Materials
For those with the means, wardrobes extended beyond daily and Sunday dresses to include outfits for socializing. Dances, holiday celebrations, picnics, and community gatherings were common, and women, accustomed to dressing for occasions in the East, continued this tradition on the frontier.
Mary Chestnut’s Americana Victorian Cotton Dress
These social dresses were highly valued. Women might order fabrics from general stores, eagerly anticipating the chance to create fashionable pieces. Godey’s Lady’s Book was a widely circulated magazine, with frontier women enthusiastically sharing and copying dress patterns and styles featured within. This highlights the resourcefulness in utilizing available pioneer woman material and inspiration.
Fabric availability for new dresses depended heavily on the proximity and stock of general stores. In many cases, women had limited dress options, so their best dress served for special events, enhanced with embellishments. Hand-crocheted collars, shawls, and other accessories were popular ways to elevate an outfit.
Accessorizing: Adding Flourishes to Frontier Fashion
Accessories were a significant aspect of the frontier wardrobe. Beyond hoop skirts and calico, finishing touches were highly important. Jewelry and accessories were emphasized in historical accounts, highlighting their role in expressing personal style and refinement.
Women on the frontier accessorized with:
- Aprons
- Boots
- Brooches
- Lockets
- Earrings
- Precious stones and metals
- Hair adornments
- Hats
- Collars and cuffs
- Gloves
- Undersleeves
- Parasols
- Fans
- Handbags
- Shawls
A Lasting Legacy of Pioneer Woman Material and Style
My own growing interest in my pioneer ancestors has deepened my appreciation for this era. While “prairie style” and “western wear” clothing are readily available today, understanding the historical context of how pioneer women balanced propriety, beauty, and fashion amidst demanding physical circumstances is fascinating. The choices they made regarding pioneer woman material reveal much about their lives and values.
This exploration is just the beginning. Stay tuned for a follow-up post delving into the accessories that completed the frontier woman’s look: accessories in the frontier.
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Woman in pioneer clothing standing in a field wearing a long-sleeved blue top and long blue skirt.
Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
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Pioneer Calico Blouse and Skirt
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Pioneer Blouse, Apron and Skirt
