The sun beat down on the parched earth of Sylmar, California. Dust swirled around my feet as I stood at the corner of Bledsoe and Foothill Boulevard, the modern sprawl of the San Fernando Valley pressing in around me with its condominiums and cars. Yet, stepping onto the brick path leading into the Pioneer Memorial Cemetery felt like stepping back in time, into a grimmer, more rustic version of the Old West. It was a Saturday morning, and the heat was already intense, but two women were wisely setting up an information table under a large red umbrella, a splash of color against the dusty landscape, mirroring the cemetery’s brick entrance.
I was greeted by Jacky Walker, the chair of the Pioneer Cemetery Committee, whose warmth and deep knowledge of the cemetery were immediately apparent. As she offered to guide me through the grounds, I was struck by how unlike any other cemetery Pioneer Memorial was. Instead of rows of imposing headstones, there were only a handful, perhaps thirteen or fourteen, scattered across the property. More numerous were the simple concrete bases where headstones once stood, and the stark white crosses fashioned from piping. In the back corner, an odd, unfinished picnic area with tall wooden posts and white chains evoked the eerie image of a ghostly ship. As Jacky led me through the sun-baked grounds, the cemetery’s unique character and palpable sense of mystery deepened with each step. “There are so many mysteries here,” Jacky confided, “so many.”
This forgotten corner of the Valley is indeed steeped in myth and whispered tales. Stories persist of mass burials of infants, of victims of the devastating St. Francis Dam disaster, and of the 1918 influenza pandemic. The unfortunate, and inaccurate, reputation as a pet cemetery leads to the grim task of removing improperly discarded animal remains from beyond its fences. For decades, dedicated volunteers like Jacky have tirelessly worked to unravel the true history of the pioneers buried here, piecing together fragments of the past. The identities, numbers, and locations of those interred were long obscured, but the picture is slowly coming into focus, though still veiled by time, limited resources, and the often-careless nature of a place that still holds a touch of the Wild West spirit.
Image: Sparse grave markers stand in the dry earth of San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, reflecting its rugged and historical character.
Morningside: The Cemetery’s Early Days
In the quiet graveyard at San Fernando is the last resting place of Colonel A. B. Moffitt, which has been tenderly decorated by loving hands today. He was well known to a majority of those present, and to some connected by the tenderest ties […] To him we say, and to all his gallant comrades dead, whether sleeping on the field of battle or in the quiet church yard, sleep on, brave souls! Sleep on, and may naught disturb thy endless and restful sleep! –A.B. Moffitt obituary, Los Angeles Herald, March 31, 1887
The story of San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery begins in 1874 when California State Senator Charles Maclay, instrumental in establishing the township of San Fernando, designated 40 acres for a non-denominational public cemetery. Named Morningside Cemetery, it became only the second burial ground in the San Fernando Valley, predated only by the Catholic cemetery at the San Fernando Mission. By 1894, the land boom that swept through Southern California had reduced Morningside to a mere ten acres.
In 1905, the San Fernando Cemetery Association was formed to oversee the cemetery’s management, comprised of prominent early Valley figures including H.R. Maclay, F.A. Powell, H.C. Allen, J. Burr, and E.G. White. A significant shift occurred in 1911 when the city of San Fernando redrew its boundaries, placing Morningside outside city limits and within the newly formed neighborhood of Sylmar. Sylmar was then known for its flourishing olive groves and reputation for clean, healthy air, a stark contrast to the bustling city it bordered.
The surviving headstones from this early period offer poignant glimpses into the lives of California’s pioneers. Agnes Danforth, for instance, embarked on a journey from Scotland to New York at the young age of 12 in 1850. She later married George Washington Danforth, raised six children, and passed away in 1903, her life a testament to the immigrant experience far from her Scottish homeland. David B. McKinnon, who died at 35, was a member of the Woodmen of the World, a fraternal organization that provided headstones for its members. McKinnon’s marker bears the society’s emblem and a tree cleaved in half, symbolizing a life tragically cut short. The story of 22-year-old Anna L. Foster speaks to the dangers of frontier life; her excursions to Los Angeles ended tragically when she was trampled by a blacksmith’s horse. Similarly, the Reed family plot hints at the hardships of the era, suggesting multiple family members succumbed to the perils of the West, possibly including accidental drowning.
Image: A close-up of an aged gravestone in San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, showcasing the historical inscriptions and weathered texture.
Recent discoveries have unveiled a more unsettling chapter in the cemetery’s narrative, linked to the immigrant experience of the early 20th century. In 2011, investigations revealed a section in the back right corner, near the enigmatic “ghost ship” picnic structure, containing over 60 unmarked graves. Death certificates unearthed in subsequent research confirmed that many of those buried were Mexican citizens, some of whom had arrived in California only days before their deaths, interred at Morningside in the early 1900s. A report from the 1930s by a woman documenting epitaphs mentioned excluding “the Mexican section” from her survey. This, combined with other evidence, suggests that the area surrounding the ghost ship may have been a segregated burial ground, possibly a potter’s field, similar to that at Evergreen Cemetery, where the city of Los Angeles contracted for the burial of the indigent. Further research is still needed to substantiate these unsettling speculations.
Abandonment and Vandalism: Midnight Activities
Vandals have all but destroyed the cemetery. Tombstones are toppled and broken, children ride horses through the weed covered plots and local residents use the site as a free dump. Most gravestones have been stolen for patio, fireplaces and private statues. A water valve must be dug up and reburied after each use to prevent destruction by vandals. People don’t seem to realize it’s a cemetery or they could care less. They treat it like a vacant lot. –Los Angeles Times, May 26, 1969
In 1923, the San Fernando Cemetery Association was dissolved, and the remaining 3.8 acres of Morningside were acquired for a mere $10 by Will G. Nobel, the sole mortician in the Valley at the time. It is believed that a wildfire in the 1920s swept through the cemetery, destroying many wooden grave markers. Nobel passed away in 1932, and his family continued to operate the cemetery for a period. However, in 1939, California enacted stricter regulations concerning cemetery ownership, making it a less appealing venture. The last recorded burial at Morningside took place on August 25, 1939. After this date, the cemetery and its interred were inexplicably and completely abandoned.
For the next two decades, neglect consumed the cemetery. Weeds grew unchecked, obscuring any remaining markers from view. Local accounts recall children riding horses through the overgrown grounds, using gravestones for lasso practice, pulling them to the ground. Granite markers were pilfered, repurposed for patios, fireplaces, and even as weights for drag racing cars. The city disclaimed responsibility for the cemetery’s upkeep, citing regulations that exempted burial grounds under ten acres from city maintenance. During this period of abandonment, some families may have relocated loved ones to other cemeteries.
Finally, in 1958, the San Fernando Mission Parlor of the Native Daughters of the Golden West stepped in, alerted to the cemetery’s deplorable condition by concerned citizens. In 1959, the Nobel family deeded the neglected property to the Native Daughters, a charitable historical society composed of dedicated women.
Image: A scene of neglect and vandalism at San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, showing toppled and broken tombstones amidst overgrown vegetation.
Restoration and Remembrance: Little by Little
Image: “Mrs. McPhee and Mrs. Keith Swaner, Native Daughters parlor president, examine vandalized open grave” – a historical photo illustrating the challenges faced during early restoration efforts.
Under the leadership of chairwoman Carolyn Riggs, the Native Daughters embarked on the arduous task of reclaiming the cemetery, clearing the overgrowth, and attempting to identify the scattered graves. Their efforts were continually hampered by chronic underfunding. Countless hours spent weeding, clearing debris, and watering were often undone by vandals and grave robbers, who left gaping holes where markers once stood. The Native Daughters discovered a ledger from the Nobel family, believed to be a list of over 600 individuals buried at the cemetery. This list, while helpful, also contributed to some of the enduring myths surrounding the site. Attempts to locate relatives of those presumed interred yielded little success, with few willing or able to contribute to the cemetery’s restoration.
Despite these setbacks, the Native Daughters persevered. On April 30, 1961, their dedication culminated in a significant milestone: Pioneer Memorial Cemetery was officially declared State Historical Landmark No. 753. Yet, even this achievement was met with persistent challenges. A newly erected flagpole, a symbol of their hard-won progress, was repeatedly vandalized, its ropes cut just days after its dedication. Volunteer Ethelwynne Fraisher recounted, “We would plant bushes and trees one day and they would be stolen the next.” Without a fence to secure the grounds, gardening tools had to be transported to and from the site for every work session. By 1969, the Native Daughters, weary from the constant struggle, were considering relinquishing their stewardship. “We’re a bunch of old ladies who can’t possibly keep it clean,” lamented Mrs. Keith Swaners. “We have no business trying to run a cemetery.”
However, these resilient women held on. During the 1970s, youth groups joined forces with the Native Daughters in various cemetery improvement projects. But misfortune continued to plague the site. The 1971 Sylmar earthquake further damaged headstones and bent the already beleaguered flagpole. In 1979, a fence was finally donated by a local developer, who, in exchange, was permitted to build the condominiums that now border Pioneer on either side. Problems persisted into the 1980s. In 1983, a neighbor complained about the cemetery’s unkempt appearance, with weeds reaching waist-high. A construction truck crashed into the fence and fled the scene. Adding to the sense of unease, a woman visiting her father’s grave was harassed by a motorcycle gang within the cemetery grounds. Peace and tranquility remained elusive.
A turning point arrived in 1986 when the San Fernando Women’s Club adopted Pioneer as a Civic Improvements Project, though ownership remained with the Native Daughters. Donations from the Chamber of Commerce facilitated substantial improvements, including the installation of an irrigation system. The cemetery found a tireless advocate in Edith Reber, an elderly woman who, even after the irrigation system was damaged, could often be seen hand-watering each of Pioneer’s fifty-plus trees. In 1993, Edith’s unwavering dedication was recognized when the City of Los Angeles designated the cemetery a historical-cultural monument. “It’s always one thing or another,” she remarked of the ongoing struggle to restore the cemetery, “But we are getting there little by little.”
Image: Edith Reber, a dedicated volunteer, tending to the trees at San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, highlighting the ongoing community efforts.
“We’ll never know who all are buried here, but we’ll give it a good try.” –Jacky Walker, Los Angeles Daily News, May 3, 2011
In 2002, the Native Daughters transferred ownership of Pioneer to the San Fernando Valley Historical Society. The Historical Society prioritized civic engagement, fundraising, and beautification of the grounds. Community initiatives like Adopt-a-Plot were launched, and the cemetery began welcoming visitors on a monthly basis. A brick pathway, inscribed with the names from the list of 600 presumed burials, was installed with the support of a matching grant from the City of Los Angeles. Crucially, the Society shifted focus to uncovering the subsurface mysteries of this long-suffering cemetery.
In 2010, utilizing funds raised through ghost tours and other events, the Historical Society engaged Geophysicist Brian Damiata to conduct a comprehensive survey of the cemetery. Employing ground-penetrating radar during the summer heat, Damiata meticulously mapped the entire grounds. His findings, revealed in 2011, were remarkable. Only 214 burials were detected within the cemetery, suggesting that a significant portion of the land had never been used for interments, and that some existing headstones had been moved from their original locations, no longer corresponding to actual graves. Damiata’s survey also confirmed the cluster of graves in the back corner, beneath the unfinished recreation area, and identified a large ditch that could potentially be a mass burial site from a disaster. However, a soil core sample is still needed to verify if this ditch is indeed a mass grave.
Image: Ground-penetrating radar being used to survey San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery in 2010, a pivotal moment in uncovering the cemetery’s secrets.
Image: A visual representation of the ground-penetrating radar survey results at San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, illustrating the layout of detected burials.
The Historical Society then confronted the puzzle of the list of 600 names. Through diligent research, they now believe it to be a compilation of clients from Will Nobel’s mortuary, rather than an accurate burial record for Morningside Cemetery. Researchers have diligently sought out death certificates of those interred at Morningside, uncovering approximately 200 to date. Intriguingly, over forty of these names are new discoveries, not appearing on any previous lists, and many bear Latino surnames. Society members hope that ledgers from Nobel’s mortuary, now owned by funeral industry giant Dignity Memorial, might contain more complete burial records for Morningside Cemetery, offering further clarity.
Over the years, some of Pioneer’s displaced headstones have made their way back. In 1992, the Ansley family gravestone, stolen 32 years prior, was discovered in the parking lot of Glendale Adventist Hospital, accompanied by a note: “Return to Pioneer Cemetery.” Following the publicity surrounding Damiata’s findings, two more headstones were returned to Pioneer. One, simply inscribed “Mother,” was returned on Mother’s Day, 2011. The gravestone of Emiele Prouty, a Valley pioneer born in 1841, was found by a man in a North Hollywood rental house. Reluctant to discard it, he had moved it with him for years until a friend informed him about Pioneer Cemetery.
The San Fernando Valley Historical Society’s Pioneer Cemetery Committee, led by Jacky Walker, continues its valiant efforts to unlock the many remaining mysteries of San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery. Local Boy Scout troops and other civic groups contribute to ongoing improvement projects. A local resident diligently cares for the plants and trees. The cemetery hosts a large Memorial Day ceremony and other community events. Yet, more researchers, volunteers, and financial support are needed to fully realize the potential of this unique and historically significant site. The future chapters of this hallowed ground are yet unwritten, but one thing is certain: the story of San Fernando Pioneer Memorial Cemetery will continue to be anything but ordinary.
Image: The brick-lined entrance and pathway of Pioneer Memorial Cemetery, inviting visitors to explore its rich history.
Special Thanks to Jacky Walker of the San Fernando Mission Historical Society.
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1 “Cemetery renovation proposed by chamber” Los Angeles Times, March 15, 1966
2 “‘Old Ladies’ want to give up job” Los Angeles Times, May 26, 1969
3 “Requiem for a Graveyard” Los Angeles Times, November 22, 1993
