In the late summer of 2020, as wildfires cast a smoky haze across the western United States, the search for clear skies and outdoor adventure led us to the southwest corner of Montana and the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana. With much of the West Coast shrouded in smoke and many forests closed, we sought a destination promising fewer crowds, pleasant weather, and hopefully, cleaner air. The Pioneer Mountains emerged as the perfect escape, offering a tranquil mountain experience far from the well-trodden tourist paths of Montana.
Campsite view in Pioneer Mountains with dog
Our journey into this relatively unknown corner of Montana unfolded along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana, a 49-mile paved road nestled within the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. This byway, a designated scenic route since 1989, carves through the heart of the Pioneer Mountain Range, where granite peaks soar to over 10,000 feet. Whether you’re an avid camper, hiker, angler, history buff, or simply seeking breathtaking vistas, the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana has something to captivate every traveler. Compared to Montana’s more famous destinations like Glacier National Park, the Pioneers offer a quieter, more intimate mountain experience, making it a true hidden gem.
Map showing poor air quality in Western US
The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana stretches southward from State Highway 43 near Wise River to State Highway 278, situated between Dillon and Jackson. It’s important to note that the byway is seasonally closed from December 1st to May 15th between the Pettingill parking area and Elkhorn Hot Springs, due to winter conditions. Its manageable length makes it ideal for a day trip, yet with nine well-maintained Forest Service campgrounds along the route, it’s also perfectly suited for an extended camping adventure.
Map of Pioneer Mountains Byway route in Southwest Montana
Camping Under Montana Skies Along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway
The Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana is dotted with fantastic camping options, catering to both tent campers and RV enthusiasts. As you travel from north to south along the byway, you’ll discover a variety of Forest Service campgrounds, each with its own unique charm. These include Pettengill, Fourth of July, Lodgepole, Boulder Creek, Willow, Little Joe, Mono Creek, Price Creek, and Grasshopper campgrounds. For those camping in tents or smaller RVs, Willow, Little Joe, and Mono Creek are particularly recommended. Most of the other campgrounds, with the exception of Pettengill, can comfortably accommodate larger RVs, even those exceeding 50 feet in length. However, if you have a particularly long RV, it’s always wise to contact the Wise River Ranger Station to confirm campground suitability before your visit.
Detailed map of Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway campgrounds and points of interest
During our exploration of the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana, we chose Boulder Creek Campground for our base. Its appealing combination of shade and sun exposure (perfect for solar panels), along with its quieter atmosphere compared to the busier Lodgepole Campground, made it an excellent choice. Lodgepole’s popularity likely stems from its desirable riverside campsites along the Wise River. At Boulder Creek, we secured a convenient pull-through site with a scenic overlook of the Wise River, although direct river access wasn’t readily available from our specific site. The campground offered paved access roads and campsites, each equipped with a picnic table and fire pit. Potable water was accessible via a hand pump, and pit toilets were available, though garbage service was not provided. The camping fee was a very reasonable $8 per night.
Pioneer Mountain campsite setup
Beyond the established campgrounds along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana, we also noticed numerous attractive dispersed camping spots, offering the opportunity for free, dry camping. On future visits to the area, we plan to explore these dispersed options further. However, for our initial introduction to the Pioneers, Boulder Creek Campground proved to be a comfortable and convenient choice.
Smoky sunset view from Pioneer Mountains campsite
A few practicalities to consider when visiting the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana: ensure you are well-stocked with supplies, especially diesel fuel if needed. The Wise River Mercantile offers basic necessities, but its selection is limited. Notably, it’s the only gas station in Wise River and does not sell diesel. Cell service and Wi-Fi are extremely limited in the Pioneer Mountains area. We found a Verizon signal only at the Wise River Ranger Station parking lot.
Hiking Adventures in the Pioneer Mountains
For hiking enthusiasts, the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana is a gateway to a network of trails leading into the rugged backcountry. While many trailheads are accessible directly from the byway, some are reached via I-15 to the east. Our list of desired hikes focused on high mountain lakes, but unfortunately, smoky conditions during our visit limited us to just two hikes, both with somewhat obscured views. Despite the haze, we glimpsed the stunning potential of the Pioneer lakes, fueling our desire to return and conquer our list of postponed hikes under clearer skies.
Sawtooth Lake hike in smoky conditions
Our first hike in the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana region was to Sawtooth Lake. From Boulder Creek Campground, we drove south along the byway, passing the turnoff for Maverick Mountain Ski Area, and then turned east onto Clark Creek Road, following signs to the clearly marked trailhead.
The Sawtooth Lake trail was remarkably well-maintained, with only a few fallen trees to navigate. The initial ascent led us through a section of forest that had burned in 2003 and was now regenerating with young lodgepole pines, offering minimal shade in this section. The middle portion of the hike was a pleasant, mostly level walk alongside Clark Creek through a healthy forest. The final climb to Sawtooth Lake was well-graded, offering glimpses of scenic vistas despite the smoky air.
Closer view of Sawtooth Lake with smoky mountain backdrop
Sawtooth Lake, nestled at 8,523 feet, was a breathtaking alpine lake framed by impressive mountain peaks. Although wildfire smoke muted the views somewhat, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit and would gladly hike to Sawtooth Lake again on a clear day for better photos and unobstructed scenery. Our Sawtooth Lake hike totaled 7.8 miles with a 1,500-foot elevation gain. We encountered very few other hikers, adding to the sense of peaceful solitude. For a moderate hike in the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana area, Sawtooth Lake is an excellent choice.
Our second hike took us to Grayling Lake. While geographically close to our campsite, reaching the Grayling Lake trailhead required a lengthy drive. It was nearly a two-hour journey each way, involving a drive north on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana to Wise River, then east on Highway 43 to I-15, south to the Melrose exit, and finally 17 miles west on Trapper Creek Road (gravel) and Canyon Creek Road (dirt)—a slow and bumpy ride. The drive itself felt like an adventure! Along the way, we made a stop at the intriguing Canyon Creek Charcoal Kilns, a visit we’ll detail in a separate post.
Map showing the longer route to Grayling Lake trailhead
Smoky conditions persisted when we arrived at the Canyon Creek Trailhead, but we started hiking with optimism. The trail immediately crossed Canyon Creek via a sturdy footbridge and continued at a gentle incline through the forest. Occasionally, we caught glimpses of towering peaks through the haze, but smoke largely obscured the panoramic views. The forest on this eastern side of the Pioneers seemed lusher than on the western side of the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana.
Road leading to Canyon Creek Trailhead for Grayling Lake hike
At 1.75 miles, we reached a signed junction. The trail to the right leads to Crescent Lake, a potential backpacking destination for a future trip. We took the Lion Creek Trail to the left, continuing our gradual ascent through the woods. The majority of the elevation gain occurred in the final miles, via a beautifully engineered series of switchbacks. We passed several viewpoints, and despite limited visibility, we could sense the grandeur of the surrounding mountains.
Smoky view of mountains from Grayling Lake trail
Grayling Lake, at an elevation of 8,728 feet, was stunning. Without the smoke, it would likely have ranked among the most spectacular lakes we’ve ever seen. Originally, I had considered continuing to nearby Lion Lake, rumored to be even more breathtaking, but time constraints and the worsening smoke deterred us. We agreed that a backpacking trip to this area is a must for the future. For this visit, we simply enjoyed a peaceful break at the Grayling Lake outlet before hiking back.
Grayling Lake on a smoky day
Even with the smoky haze and limited views, we wholeheartedly recommend the hike to Grayling Lake if you are prepared for the long drive from the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana campgrounds. Our Grayling Lake hike was 11.6 miles roundtrip with a 1,400-foot elevation gain. We encountered only two other groups on the trail, reinforcing the feeling of remote wilderness. This area has definitely earned a spot on our bucket list for future backpacking adventures.
Beyond Hiking: Recreation Along the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway
While our time on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana focused on camping, hiking, and exploring historical sites, the area offers a wealth of other recreational activities.
Scenic viewpoint along the Pioneer Mountains Byway before smoke
- Interpretive Sites, Overlooks, and Picnic Areas: Take your time driving the byway and stop at the numerous well-marked interpretive sites and scenic overlooks to fully appreciate the landscape.
- Elkhorn Hot Springs: This privately owned hot springs resort, located in Grasshopper Valley, offers a “rustic getaway” experience with lodging, a restaurant, and a range of outdoor pools with temperatures from 92-102 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Maverick Mountain Ski Resort: Known as a “Montana local secret,” Maverick Mountain offers uncrowded slopes and fantastic powder for skiers and snowboarders.
- Crystal Park Mineral Collection Area: Located along the byway, this Forest Service site allows visitors to dig for quartz crystals for a small vehicle fee.
- Big Hole River Fishing: The town of Wise River provides access to the renowned Big Hole River, famous for its trout fishing. Several local outfitters offer guided fishing trips.
Exploring Beyond the Byway
The recreational opportunities extend beyond the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana itself. Consider exploring these nearby attractions:
Unique rock spires at Humbug Spires State Park
Resources for Planning Your Pioneer Mountains Adventure
- The Forest Service brochure is an essential resource for planning your trip to the Pioneer Mountains National Scenic Byway. It provides detailed information about the byway, campgrounds, and recreational opportunities. You can obtain up-to-date road and trail conditions from the knowledgeable staff at the Wise River Ranger Station.
- Dillon and Butte are the closest towns offering full services and amenities to the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Montana.
Continue Your Pioneer Mountains Journey
Stay tuned for our next post, “Montana’s Pioneer Mountains National Scenic Byway Part 2: Historical Sites,” where we’ll explore the fascinating Coolidge Ghost Town and the Canyon Creek Charcoal Kilns, both must-see historical attractions along the byway.
Coolidge Ghost Town along the Pioneer Mountains Byway
